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Hank
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Caverna do Dragão
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Demônio Das Sombras S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hank S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mestre dos Magos S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Olho Do Observador S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Presto S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Vingador S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| GPS: | -19.30507, -43.6166 |
| FA: | Márcio Bertucci - 2015 |
| Page Views: | 20 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Chase Miller on Jul 7, 2025 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Matt Looby, Jim Lawyer |
Description
How the hell do you hold onto these things??
If you can work out how to grab the holds, you can send the route…if you’re also good on your feet. Start with a hard V5ish boulder problem on rather slippery crystal crimps and make a desperate move to a sloping jug. Transverse right through the best holds you’ll get on the route before engaging in 3-4 bolts of maddening slopers and pinches that will make you question if they are really something you can move from. Unlock the microbeta and fire it to the top, as it thankfully eases the last few bolts before anchors.
This gets 5.12c/d in the guidebook, but the locals all said 5.12d. A masterpiece in technical nuance on slopers and pinches.
Location
Starts on top of the large boulder on the 5.12 wall, and trends right. Look for the small crimps and jug hole. Start off the rock, or a little further left and traverse in.
Bolt 1 is in an extremely annoying place and perfectly gets in the way of utilizing a crucial RH crimp when the draw is hung, so it’s better just to stick clip bolt 2.
1 Comment