King Edward Chan

King Edward Chan and Amazing Grace Chan are two new sport multi-pitch climbs to the right of Ursa Minor and Jay MacArthur’s Kaiju Bear. The crux pitches are a bit harder than anything on those climbs with steeper sections. They share the starting pitch to the main ledge then split apart until they join back together at the top. The climbs are well bolted. It is recommended that the stronger climber leads the bottom half. The easy upper pitches are good practice for people wanting more lead experience.

***Remember that developers and first ascensionists get to jump any line and pass any parties on their climbs.***

Warnings 

These are newly developed climbs which may have some loose grit or rocks on the route. Wear helmets and do not loiter around the base of the climb. It is inadvisable to leave gear, pets or children at the base. The developers have had fixed gear stolen from some of their climbs. If the climbs feel runnout or are missing hangers, it is likely someone has taken the gear or altered the climbs.

Please avoid exploring any ledges or taped off areas. Or climbs that are not opened, with hangers removed, with red tags or with fixed lines. Please do not rappel off any fixed lines. There are other developers working in the area. Rockfall and deadfall are always a possibility, especially away from the actual climbs. Climb these routes at your own risk.  

Conditions 

The climbs are fully in the sun by the afternoon. The best time to do them in the summer is in the morning and evenings, or by headlamp for experienced parties. In the spring and fall, afternoons are best. These are quick drying climbs and can often be dry a day or two after the rain. In an emergency the climbs can be rappelled from before the last pitch with a 60m rope (tie knots in the ends). 

Skills 

These climbs have steeper crux pitches. The grade of the climbs is for the redpoint, they may feel harder on the onsight or if the Bad Beta Bears strike. A 5.9 climber may not be able to onsight or flash them, they should however be able to get up them. The steeper cruxes can be aided by pulling on draws and stepping on bolts or slings. Parties should be practiced in multipitch skills before attempting the climbs. The developers expect that stronger climbers may well skip bolts and link pitches at their own risk.

Pitch 1 

5.7, 12 bolts, ~30m. Belay from either the base or scramble up to the ledge. Follow the right bolt line. Crux is at the steeper bulge. Amazing Grace Chan shares this starting pitch. Alternatively do Pitch 1 of Jay MacArthur’s Kaiju Bear to the ledge. 

From the ledge at the top of Pitch 1 

• The steep line on the left with double overhangs is Roof Pig 5.11b, Sport, 10 bolts (FA Adam Spilchen 2023)
• The middle line that starts on top of the boulder is King Edward Chan 5.9
• The right line that starts up the face flakes by the tree is Amazing Grace Chan 5.9
• If coming from Jay MacArthur’s Kaiju Bear Pitch 1, go right and down the hand line to the climbs.

Pitch 2 

5.9, 12 bolts, ~30m. Tricky stem start followed by a traverse right. Climb the overlap up a crack to the steep crux corner. Finish up a hand crack to the anchors. There is a chain to reduce drag and prevent carabiner edge loading. Longer draws or slings may help with rope drag but aren’t necessary. This is the money pitch.

Pitch 3 

5.8, 3 bolts, ~7m. Tricky moves right off the deck and over the bulge. Easy climbing till the next anchor. This pitch was intentionally kept short so that the second can be kept tight. If linking with the next pitch, consider that a second could smack the belay ledge with rope stretch if they fall at the crux moves.  

Pitch 4 

5.5, 10 bolts, ~30m. Easy featured slab climbing and it gets easier the higher up you go! This is a pleasant well bolted pitch for those who want more experience leading. This is the last pitch you can rappel back down from.

Pitch 5 

5.0, 7 bolts, ~20m. Easy scrambling to the top. Joins Amazing Grace Chan for the last few bolts. Tops out at the same summit as Jay MacArthur’s Kaiju Bear.  

12 quickdraws (bring 14 if you want the option to do Jay MacArthur’s Kaiju Bear if the climbs are busy) plus anchor material, helmut, 60m rope, some water and a light jacket. Longer draws or alpine slings may be useful, but are not essential. Don’t forget a headlamp.

The climbs are located in the Chek Canyon Climbing Site. They are part of the North Star Wall. 

Approach 

Same approach as for Ursa Minor and Jay MacArthur's Kaiju Bear. From the middle Chek parking (just below Conroy's Castle) walk down the campground road and you will see a trail to your right. Walk on that trail past the bench (Andre’s Wall), then through a talus field. Follow the trail around the hill till you see several climbs. Ursa Minor is the one on the left, Jay MacArthur's Kaiju Bear is on the right. The new climbs start at the same spot as Jay MacArthur's Kaiju Bear but do not share any bolts.

Descent 

Join the Ursa Minor descent trail. Follow the trail, easy hike to the true summit. Take cool selfies with the summit bears. Follow the trail into a ridge walk, then back to the campground.  In an emergency both routes can be rappelled up to the 4th pitch with a single 60m (tie knots in the end) till the big 2nd pitch starting ledge. From there go up the hand line on the left and rappel down the 1st pitch of Jay MacArthur’s Kaiju Bear to the base. Please do not rappel onto other parties.