Les Intouchables

I am adding this route because we found little to no information anywhere of the updates since the 2018 rockfall cleaned half of this route off the wall. I climbed this a few days ago and will share the pitches to the best of my memory from my experience using the grades we were given from a local guide. All of the belays are bolted and equipped to rappel with a single 60 although watch your ends as its close! (We used a 70 comfortably) This route was unbelievably high quality and one of if not my single favorite route I have done in my life. Come do this!

P0- Scramble up loose choss to just right of the base of the prow. Two anchor bolts on a good stance on a small ledge marks the beginning of the route

P1- The beautiful crack you've been staring at on the approach is all yours! Climb the amazing left facing corner crack passing several bolts along the way. The crux comes about halfway up as the crack tapers and you navigate some thin tips on steeper terrain. Easier ground finishes at a bolted belay. 11c

P2- Continue briefly up the left facing crack before it evens out and you arrive under a roof. Clip the bolt out left and traverse left under the roof and up into the next left facing corner where the crack continues to taper to a seam. Just when all hope is lost and the dihedral ends again, reach around to the right and transfer again to another hand crack out right. Easier climbing (3's) takes you to a small ledge and 2 bolt anchor. 11b

P3- Take the splitter 3 crack about 20ft where you will clip a bolt out left and navigate the stacked blocks which seemed relatively solid. Navigate more awesome cracks and flakes continuing up to another 2 bolt belay on a good ledge. 10c

P4- Although that amazing left facing corner looks inviting above you, its not yours, but don't worry your way is just as good! Instead you are aiming for the large golden left facing corner above you to the right. Climb easier fun cracks up leaning to the right towards the bolt you can see just above the roof from the belay. Clip the bolt and traverse right into the tips corner crack. Climb this corner as it continues to get thinner and thinner eventually requiring you to use face holds to exit and reach the stance above. Follow this crack system up and left now taking the hands crack directly below the massive dagger above continuing up the hand crack up the left side of the dagger to a hanging belay at 2 bolts. Alternatively you can pass these bolts climbing 5 more feet to the right to a large ledge to build a gear anchor. 11c

P5- Take whichever line appeals to you most to the bolted anchor on the face 90ft above. Easy quick pitch. 5.8

P6- Continue up easier ground taking the left facing crack directly above you. There are a few options here all of which seemed moderate. You're aiming for the base of the obvious massive block above ending at a smaller than expected ledge stance and another 2 bolts. 10a

P7- WHAT YOU CAME FOR! Try not to get too excited, you're going to need that energy soon! The right and most stunning crack on this wall is yours unless your feeling wild and want to taste either of the two harder variations to the left. Begin up the constantly overhanging crack which begins as fingers (.5s) and slowly opens up to thin hands (1s) for the first half of the crack which is the crux. Once at the end of this crack, jog left two feet into the thank god hand crack and continue up the perfect glory hands of still overhanging crack all the way to the awesome ledge and another 2 bolt anchor. One of the single best pitches of my life! 12c

P8- Take the short crack up the face in front of you aiming for the first bolt above. Here split right to a second bolt hidden around the right side of the arete. Continue up the cracks passing another bolt or two before ending on the large ledge system above at another 2 bolt belay. 11b

P9- We had no information on this pitch and took a short easy crack system on the right side to the true summit. There are bolts directly in front on the face which look challenging although we did not climb this way. Easy climbing leads to the summit and we linked P8/9 into one pitch.

Descent- Rappel the route, very clean and straightforward. Again we used a single 70 but were told a 60 could work with little margin.

Trident du Tacul, Take the standard approach for Grand Capucin. 2 hours the French side and 1 from Italy

10 draws
Single .2 and .3
Doubles .4-3