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Bloody Sadness

V5, Boulder, 25 ft (8 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Suchoski 5/25
California > San Francisco B… > Wine Country/No… > Nut Tree Boulders > Woodcrest Boulders > Woodcrest Ridge… > Boulder of Bloody Mad…
Warning Access Issue: Hillcrest Parking Issue DetailsDrop down

Description

After the devastating rockfall which eliminated the entire overhanging face, nothing was left of the old classic traverse Stoned Dangler. An hour or so was spent cleaning up the large pile of rubble below the old routes, a different but worth doing traverse emerged. Some additional cleanup is needed to clear the landing a bit. Time did not allow for a full cleanup.

Start on the far right side where the original Stoned Dangler traverse started on a big two handed rail about face high. Work your way onto the main face and follow the old route past some crimps and slopers staying well below the lip. Now drop down low to where the fresh scar starts and head for a short thin and very sharp crack splits the face. Stay below the lip and pass the crack on rounded holds and a few slopers to where the rock ends. Stay below the sandy debris covered ledge which resulted from the rockfall. 

Location

A right to left traverse of the Bloody Madness Boulder. 

Protection

Pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Staying below the lip.
[Hide Photo] Staying below the lip.
Where the new rock begins.
[Hide Photo] Where the new rock begins.