Sugar Marmot Var.

This route is a variation, climbing Stone Marmot into Brown Sugar after pitch four. Garry Brace and Peter Cowan originally climbed Brown Sugar on gear in 1972. When I spoke to Garry about where a new route will go, he gave me permission to add bolts to Brown Sugar.

At the time, I was not sure how Stone Marmot would end or where it would go but I knew a couple of existing routes climbed by Garry (et. al.) might make logical finishing pitches. During my first exploration to the upper Apron, it made sense to continue up the last 4 pitches of Brown Sugar. I added bolts on lead, discovering a very cool climbing feature - the upper chimney pitches. 

It became obvious where the name "Brown Sugar" originated as the chimneys are a brilliant orangy-brown rock with large xenolithic crystals, analogous to clumps of brown sugar. The climbing is super fun in a wild rock feature that otherwise might go mostly unnoticed, laying dormant in secrecy as a trad line. The gear is sparse to non-existent, a testament to the steal nerves and expert technique of the first ascensionist.

By climbing the variation, Sugar Marmot, you keep the grade down to 5.8 on the last 4 pitches. The chimneys do not require much in the way of chimneying technique. They narrow down at the beginning, to where you could chimney but there are so many blocky features inside the chimney that you face climb. The feature soon widens to the point where it feels like you are climbing in a massive orange elevator shaft.      

Really fun climbing on a unique and interesting rock feature.  

Located on the left side of the Apron feature. Follow the approach for Stone Marmot 10a to the large corner/cleft on the lower Apron. Continue up diagonal rightward from the top pitch 4 anchor on Stone Marmot 10a into the upper pitches of Brown Sugar 5.8. 

1. 5.6, 8 bolts: Start above the name plaque, following the arete and left side face. 2 bolt anchor 29m
2. 5.9, 12 bolts: Up broken ground then left on ramp feature. Straight up slabby arete. Tricky slab moves well protected. Traverse left at the top before the orange rock wall (orange rock is chossy here). Reach a nice belay stance out left.  2 bolt anchor 28m.
3. 5.9, 11 bolts: Straight up then right on a small ledge by the 2nd bolt to steep arête. Harder moves up the arete past 3 bolts. Traverse left to a flake feature at bolt then up a short corner to access easier climbing. Crux completed. Continue up slabby ground to a nice belay ledge. 2 bolts 31m
4. 5.6, 7 bolts: Nice climbing up the slabby ridge feature. Excellent rock. Pass a 2 bolt anchor for Blue Gold on the left. Step right past a bolt to gain the slabby ridge crest then up to 2 bolt anchor 32m.
   Variation: Sugar Marmot continues up the slabby ridge on Brown Sugar 5.8 (see description).
5. 5.6, 5 bolts: Continue up the slabby ridge feature, past a small shrub, up to a large belay ledge. 2 bolt anchor 26m.
6. 5.8, 5 bolts: Climb up the orange groove left of the belay bolts past some small pockets. As the angle decreases, scramble up left to a steep block with a bolt at head height. Make a few powerful moves up the block to a great belay ledge. 2 bolt anchor 25m.
7. 5.7, 6 bolts: Climb up the orangy-brown chimney groove using blocky holds. Fun climbing leads up into the chimney as it widens into a large elevator shaft feature. 2 bolt belay on the left wall 25m.
8. 5.7, 6 bolts: Climb the back wall of the elevator shaft feature past bolts, keeping left midway up until the angle eases into slab. 2 bolt anchor 25m.

Bolts, bolted belay/rap anchors, 12 draws.

Rap down the route with a 60m or 70m rope. All belays have bolts with chain equalized rappel rings. A single 70m rope allows 8->6 (skip 7).