Stone Marmot

Sean Draper first started bolting this route back in 2019. Running into a maze of other routes on the right-hand slabs, it took the wind from his sail, and he drifted away.

In the meantime, Sean, Lisa, Kate, and I had bolted and finished another route at Marble: Guaranteed Rugged. This became the longest bolted multipitch climb (33 pitches) in the Western Hemisphere. After this project, we needed a break.

Sean’s original bolts sat idle for 5.5 years until Lisa and I decided to take a closer look this year. Sniffing around on rock, I found an alternative path to the upper pitches that would create a new and independent line.

This route features exposed arête climbing, bullet proof slabs, solution pockets, and steep jug hauling. The limestone quality ranges from excellent to okay. Lisa and I did our best to sterilize most of the risky business, removing lots of loose rocks; however, being limestone, you’ll always find something easy to pry off.

We were aiming for a grade that the majority of climbers will enjoy. The crux pitches feel around 5.9-10a but, ideally, consensus will provide the final decision here. There are two fun and cruisy 5.6 pitches and one 5.10a crux pitch with distinctly different styles.

The 10a crux is a fun, delicate slab climb - very well protected. Good route finding, looking for the easiest path will ensure you find good clipping holds and keep the grade in check. We sought to make this route accessible and safe with friendly, inviting bolting.

Belay stations are all 2 bolts with chain, equalized with 30kN rings. You can rappel back down the route with a 70m rope. A 60m rope will also work but the ends dangle just above a couple of stations (always use knots!).

Thank you to Vancouver Mountain Guides for supplying funding and hardware support.  

Enjoy.

Located on the Lower Apron, left of the obvious slabs overhead as you hike up the approach trail. Take the left fork near the top of the approach trail, crossing a gully feature, and ascend up beside a large log. This log, lying on the ground, points directly up at Lucid Dreams 12a. Directly right of Lucid Dreams, in the obvious corner, is Stone Marmot 10a. Starts on the arête feature on the right-hand wall. The first bolt can be seen about 10ft up. 

1. 5.6, 8 bolts: Start above the name plaque, following the arete and left side face. 2 bolt anchor 29m
2. 5.9, 12 bolts: Up broken ground then left on ramp feature. Straight up slabby arete. Tricky slab moves well protected. Traverse left at the top before the orange rock wall (orange rock is choss here). Reach a nice belay stance out left.  2 bolt anchor 28m.
3. 5.9, 11 bolts: Straight up then right on a small ledge by the 2nd bolt to steep arête. Harder moves up the arete past 3 bolts. Traverse left to a flake feature at bolt then up a short corner to access easier climbing. Crux completed. Continue up slabby ground to a nice belay ledge. 2 bolts 31m
4. 5.6, 7 bolts: Nice climbing up the slabby ridge feature. Excellent rock. Pass a 2 bolt anchor for Blue Gold on the left. Step right past a bolt to gain the slabby ridge crest then up to 2 bolt anchor 32m.
   Variation: Sugar Marmot continues up the slabby ridge on Brown Sugar 5.8 (see description).
5. 5.8, 5 bolts: A rising traverse hard left, well protected to slabby stance. Choose to go high feet or low feet! 2 bolt anchor 9m (Note: may be able to link 5 & 6 with long slings)
6. 10a, 11 bolts: Diagonal right up slabby ramp feature. Turn sharp left on solution pockets following bolts. Meander up the slab finding the subtle slab holds makes it easier! Awesome techy climbing to good belay ledge. 2 bolt anchor 25m
7. 5.9, 12 bolts: Fun, steep jug hauling for 3 bolts directly above the belay. Continue up face climbing diagonal left past a small tree to a rounded bum crack vertical corner. Stem/jam past 2 bolts to a great belay stance in a pod. 2 bolt anchor 32m
8. 5.6, 3 bolts: Up the gully feature for a couple moves then climb right to access easy slab climbing past 3 bolts to a sunny ledge. 2 bolt anchor 21m

Bolts, bolted belay/rap stations, 12 draws.

Rappel the route. 70m best, 60m works. Skip pitch 5 anchor (7 raps total).