Mountain Project Logo

Jugzilla

5.10a/b, Sport, 122 ft (37 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Dan Head, Gerard Tarr; Feb 2012.
International > Oceania > New Zealand > N Island > Lake Taupo > Kawakawa Bay > Bluff

Description

Great climb, with epic view on top of P2. The juggy featured arête at the gully mouth. 1)
30m, 10 bolts. Climb the gully side of the arête,
exit right onto the slab (long sling to avoid rope
drag) and up to the anchor. Many parties rap off
here. 2) 12m, 3 bolts. Up the headwall, balancy traverse at
the start.

Location

Climb the hand rope to the left of Predator Pinnacle
and you will find yourself in front of a narrow, steep
bushy gully, directly under Jugzilla.

Protection

Bolted with rap anchors