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Copperhead Extension
V8,
Boulder,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
California
> San Francisco B…
> S Bay Area
> Castle Rock & S…
> Castle & Sanbo…
> Biddles
> Biddles Tower
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Description
An obscure link-up connecting Copperhead to the end of Biddles Platinum. Found in the Golden State guidebook. Involves a long, pumpy sequence of slopers, heel hooks, and toes, following the lip linking the two problems. As you turn the corner after the crux of Copperhead, follow the lip, then top out as for Biddles Platinum. Feels more like a miniature sport route than a boulder- take the grade with a grain of salt.
Location
Begin as for Copperhead, on the far left side of the Tower, when looking downhill. The ending will be the obvious dish at the top of the Biddles Platinum crack, on the side directly facing uphill. Downclimb by walking down toward the tree near the Copperhead crux, or jump down onto a padstack from the top of Platinum.
[Hide Photo] Entering into the sloper traverse after Copperhead
[Hide Photo] Linking the crux of Copperhead into the extension (the route turns the corner at this point)
[Hide Photo] Traversing on the lip between Copperhead and Biddles Platinum