Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
GPS: 45.4049, -116.12373
FA: Pitch 1: Blaze Berdoy, Pitches 2/3: Carson Sloan/Andrew Noh, Pitches 4/5: Carson Sloan/Camdon Kay
Page Views: 334 total · 24/month
Shared By: Brian Carlson on Apr 14, 2025 · Updates
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 (~5.9), is a 10-bolt sport climb, which starts on a powerful lieback climb up a large flake. Catch your breath above the flake where the steepness backs way off into easier low-angle slab climbing with nice features. After the easy slab section the angle gets steeper and a bit more thought provoking as you climb up into shallow gully, and ultimately climb out of the gully onto another lightly featured slab which ends at the Pitch 1 Anchors.

Pitch 2 (~5.10a), is a mixed climb with 3 bolts, which starts up a short slab with two bolts directly above the anchors. This leads to a very thin crack which opens up as you go higher to take perfect ringlocks and thin hand jams.  Above the thin crack is a wider crack, which ultimately gets very wide and there is one more bolt there to help protect the "very wide" section. This leads to a second bolted anchor.

Pitch 3 (~5.10a), is a mixed climb with 5 bolts, which starts up a crack directly above the pitch 2 anchors, with bolts protecting sections between crack systems.  Note, that you want to keep to the right to stay on route, not head left out the obvious large flake system.  The pitch ends with a 3 bolt face climb, as you enter the heavily featured varnish section, and climb on huge holds up to the anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.8, 100')  Place a piece just off of the belay in turtle shell patina and climb up and right through 8 bolts of interesting climbing on massive sloping chicken heads until you arrive at a comfortable belay.

Pitch 5 (5.8, 100')  Step right and clip a bolt that protects a fun pressing crux off of the belay ledge.  Continue up through 8 more bolts of interesting face climbing on large features that eventually funnel you onto an exposed arete near the summit of the formation.

Note, the first ascent party, on April 12 (pitch 1), April 13 (pitches 2 and 3), and April 19/20 (pitches 4 and 5) included, Carson Sloan, Andrew Noh, Camdon Kay, Blaze Berdoy, Landon Olsen, Reenah Olsen, Jim Carlson, Michelle Carlson, and Brian Carlson. The big routes at Manning often come with the support and efforts of large groups, and this list will probably grow if this route is pushed further up the buttress, possibly beyond the local peak above Dream of White Sheep, perhaps to the true top of Dihedral Buttress which is slightly higher than the top of Graveyard Shift.

Location Suggest change

Follow the standard approach up towards the Cookie Jar area, hiking up along the edge of the slab to the left of the Graveyard Shift/Potato Chip Flake buttress towards the huge, obvious dihedral route (Dream of White Sheep).  Best walking is probably to stay just left of the brushy area at the start, just on the edge of the low angle slabs.  As you get up near the base of Dream of White Sheep, there is the beginnings of a trail cutting through the brush towards the buttress, and then doubling back across the boulders and back onto the edge of the slabs.

Best walking as you get higher then moves out onto the grass hillside, where you can continue walking until you're even with the small tree at the base of the climb. Cross the boulder field back to the tree at that point.

Protection Suggest change

10 quickdraws and a standard rack, optionally including a fist-sized or larger cam for the wide crack section on pitch 2.

All anchors are equipped with hardware for rappelling. Bolts on pitches 1-3 are stainless 3/8 5-piece bolts with mixed Petzl and Fixe stainless hangers. Pitches 4-5 have stainless 3/8 wedges with Fixe or Lappas hangers.

Photos

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