Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Flight of Floki

5.10, Trad, 360 ft (109 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Pine Creek Canyon > Mescalito > S Face
Warning Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste DetailsDrop down

Description

P1 (red) - 5.9+ 120 ft
Wander up the left side of the obvious weakness. Trending left provides more gear opportunities, while going straight up keeps the climbing easier but runout. Either way, aim for the bolts in the patina above. Once the bolts end, place gear in the crack before trending left to the anchor.

P1 variation (blue) - 5.11a 150 ft
Wander up the right side of the obvious weakness. Safest and easiest to stay in the gully system about 10 feet before traversing left on an obvious ledge weakness. About 25 feet of 5.5 climbing before you get gear. Go up the beautiful left facing dihedral and through the crack roof. About ten feet after the roof, when the crack ends, look left for a bolt. Clip it and traverse hard left 10 feet to another bolt that is 20 feet up the 2nd pitch of FoF. Make your anchor here.

P2 - 5.10 120ft
Head straight up the obvious, easy corner system. About 15 feet from the anchor, trend left to join the crack system up and left. Do not continue straight up to the bolt 20 feet up from the anchor - this bolt is for traversing into Flight of Floki after climbing the 5.11a p1 variation. There is another bolt 15 feet left of this one, that is where you are headed.
Follow the crack system to a right-facing dihedral. Before pulling into the dihedral place a crucial black/blue totem placement in a horizontal crack on the right. Stem up the dihedral until it ends, then head up and left to a bolt. A section of easy face climbing leads to another crack system that quickly peters out. Finish with easy climbing to the anchor.

P3 - 5.10 120 ft
Go straight up to the obvious crack above the anchor. Get some gear and pull some fun moves. Follow bolts up the delicate slab above. Once the climbing eases up, keep your eyes pealed left for the anchor, about 5 feet left of the obvious crack system

P3 variation - 5.12a 130 ft
From the anchor traverse hard left and trend slightly upwards to a shallow left facing dihedral. Climb up this dihedral to a bolt on the right face. After clipping this bolt, get onto the face to your right. Dance up the small edges and crimps to a technical crux sequence. Pull a few more slab moves until you get to a nice ledge. The P3 anchor for FoF will be up and to your right. Recommended rack for this pitch is single .5 - 1, double 2 - 3, single 4. Handful of alpines, 5 draws.

From here either rappel, or continue up the crux pitch of crack rock - one of the most badass trad lines in red rock. Tom rated it 12a, I'd say solid 12. There is an anchor you can move to right below it. Recommended rack for crack rock crux pitch is 1x 0.2 X4, 3x 0.3 X4, 1x 0.3 Camalot, 2x 0.4, 0.5, 0.75 Camalots, 3x #1 Camalots, 2x #2, #3 Camalots, 1x #4 Camalot, Nuts, 5x slings, 5x draws

Decent
Rappel the route with a single 70M rope

Location

3 approach options -
Option 1 - Approach as for OB Button / OB First - Enter the wash just before cat in the hat, and follow the wash for a couple hundred feet. Keep your eyes peeled right for a 4th class access ramp that leads to a ledge system that you traverse right on. This leads to a chimney with a fixed line. After this fixed line continue traversing up and right, you will soon reach OB button / OB fist. A few more minutes of 4th class scrambling past this up the gully to the right leads to a tree equipped with tat for rappelling. FoF starts just to the right of this tree. If doing the P1 variation, climb up a bit higher from this tree and traverse in from the right.

Option 2 - Climb Nakatomi Plaza

Option 3 - Climb first pitch of crack rock

Protection

If not doing variations, a double rack to 3. #4 is useful for both the p1 and p3 variations. Triple .5-1 to sew up first pitch 11a variation
70m rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Flight of Floki
[Hide Photo] Flight of Floki
Approach beta for the OB routes and Flight of Floki. This is the spot in the wash where you cut back towards the climbs. A long traverse on a low, wide terrace (first circled climber) leads to a short, easy low 5th chimney (second circled climber).
[Hide Photo] Approach beta for the OB routes and Flight of Floki. This is the spot in the wash where you cut back towards the climbs. A long traverse on a low, wide terrace (first circled climber) leads to a sh…
Topo from start of first pitch
[Hide Photo] Topo from start of first pitch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Nicely done ! Apr 11, 2025