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Return to Cinder
5.11c,
Sport, 133 ft (40 m),
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
FA:
Dustin Stephens, Joel &
Neil Kauffman
California
> Eastern Sierra
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Upper Gorge
> Flavin Haven
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Mega steep crack in the huge dihedral left of Lava Haul.... contender for one of the best of many classic bolted cracks in the Gorge!
Start up the wide crack left of Lava Haul, hang an extended draw at bolt 5, span the wide chimney making judicious use of both walls, clip a new ASCA bolt shared with Air Walk then turn the corner and stem forever up the rad steep corner to a first anchor at 34 meters (10c).
From here, gather some chi for the burly straight-in, Valley-style steep hands crux. Cop a rest in the squeeze above, then 2 more bolts of bitchin 10+/11- hands lead to a second anchor at 40m.
Location
Looming right-facing dihedral crack left of Lava Haul
Protection
12 or 13 bolts to the first anchor (10c, 34m), 15-16 bolts for the full pitch. Bring a couple shoulder-length runners to reduce drag and an 80m rope if doing the full route, tie a knot in the end! Tape or crack gloves advisable
[Hide Photo] NK climbing 'Return to Cinder', photo Dustin Stephens
Bishop
Bishop, CA
Bishop, CA
Bishop
Bishop
Will I want knee protection on this thing? I really suck! Apr 6, 2025
Bishop
I will keep working on the upper part until I can send but I am sure the short version I will do again and again! Apr 7, 2025