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Return to Cinder

5.11c, Sport, 133 ft (40 m),  Avg: 4 from 5 votes
FA: Dustin Stephens, Joel & Neil Kauffman
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Upper Gorge > Flavin Haven
Warning Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! DetailsDrop down

Description

Mega steep crack in the huge dihedral left of Lava Haul.... contender for one of the best of many classic bolted cracks in the Gorge! 

Start up the wide crack left of Lava Haul, hang an extended draw at bolt 5, span the wide chimney making judicious use of both walls, clip a new ASCA bolt shared with Air Walk then turn the corner and stem forever up the rad steep corner to a first anchor at 34 meters (10c).

From here, gather some chi for the burly straight-in, Valley-style steep hands crux. Cop a rest in the squeeze above, then 2 more bolts of bitchin 10+/11- hands lead to a second anchor at 40m.

Location

Looming right-facing dihedral crack left of Lava Haul

Protection

12 or 13 bolts to the first anchor (10c, 34m), 15-16 bolts for the full pitch. Bring a couple shoulder-length runners to reduce drag and an 80m rope if doing the full route, tie a knot in the end! Tape or crack gloves advisable

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

NK climbing 'Return to Cinder', photo Dustin Stephens
[Hide Photo] NK climbing 'Return to Cinder', photo Dustin Stephens

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dustin Stephens
Bishop
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Climbing to the first anchor is a worthy 5.10 in its own right Mar 30, 2025
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] FIRE! Pretty wild to climb a perfect hands crack roof in the Owens. FFA Joel Kauffman, after Dustin & I got burned on the crux during a few sessions. Mar 31, 2025
Brendan Cathcart
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This is an incredibly badass route. 11c? If so, that is very, very humbling. Maybe I'll get lucky and send this thing next time! :) Apr 5, 2025
Dustin Stephens
Bishop
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Thx Brendan! Agreed on the crux being kinda burl... 11c as in getting into the Harding slot 11c haha Apr 5, 2025
[Hide Comment] Why the sandbag? I could tell after Neil's comment it was going to be a sandbag. Now confirmed! Apr 6, 2025
Dustin Stephens
Bishop
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Nah I think 11c is fair... we just suck. To be fair Neil also kinda exaggerated the number of times we botched haha Apr 6, 2025
[Hide Comment] Dude, I know you guys don't suck. I know Brendan doesn't suck.
Will I want knee protection on this thing? I really suck! Apr 6, 2025
Dustin Stephens
Bishop
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] You might if you find a kneebar and downgrade to 11b! Apr 6, 2025
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately I went away with my tail between my legs. But, agree that the climb to the first anchor is way worthy on it's own. Sadly there is nothing for me to tick.
I will keep working on the upper part until I can send but I am sure the short version I will do again and again! Apr 7, 2025