Star Académixte
M4
| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 45.86114, 6.89815 |
| FA: | Batoux, Dumarest, Jourdain 2002 |
| Page Views: | 87 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | T C on Mar 28, 2025 |
| Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
Fun more dry climb next to M6 Solar.
P1 m4 up a chimney to horn belay 40M
P2 m4- up ramp leading to fixed belay before big roof
P3 m4/5.8 traverse right under the big roof then back left up ramp. A bit loose but a couple horns with tat on them along the way. End at a fixed anchor and rap down M6 Solar if it’s not busy. Or rap back down the way you came up.
[Admin Note: the above beta for the last pitch is likely incorrect. The final pitch goes at M6 in Damilano, who normally is a bit of a sandbagger. It should involved sustained drytooling up cracks with good pro. I (BP) have also climbed a variation that steps right off the belay and goes up a chimney that is at least M6, possibly harder, and quite physical. if you finish the last pitch on M4 terrain then you’re likely off route, avoiding the crux of the climbing somehow, or possibly stopping short or lower than the intended finish. It should be possibly to top out the formation and walk off if you stick to the guidebook route, although it may be loose and preferable to rap. Whether or not you can top out via M4 terrain would settle the issue. I strongly suspect you can't.]



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