Apriétame fuerte
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Heliodor Jalba, Hanni |
Page Views: | 14 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Heliodor Jalba on Feb 28, 2025 |
Admins: | Heliodor Jalba |
Description
Quality jug climbing on tufa flows, vertical for the first half of the route and slightly overhung for the second half. The start of the route requires overcoming a gap between the ground and the rock by stick-clipping the first bolt and pulling up on the rope. There's an option to start from the ground under the roof which goes as a hard 5.11.
Location
Locate the tufa drip that connects with the floor on the left side of the crag. This route is about 30 feet (10 meters) to the right. It starts where the thick long crack in the roof exits to the lip of the wall.
Protection
7 bolts to anchors
Stick-clip the first bolt and pull up on the rope until you overcome the gap and reach the rock.
The trick to making the start go smoothly is to run the other end of the rope through the top carabiner of the quickdraw. That gives you something to pull up on and your belayer can step back to avoid getting kicked by you as you pull up toward the first bolt.
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