Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Ovos Na Chapa

5.9, Trad, 735 ft (223 m), 6 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: 10/06/2019 - Miguel Monteza & Mohamed S. Salah (Momô)
International > S America > Brazil > Rio de Janeiro > Morro Dona Marta

Description

One of the longer routes here, this climb is named after the egg-like formations some of the lumps of granite take. 

P1: Climb up to a flake that takes gear, then continue up to the first bolt. Another bolt and a few more gear placements take you to a two bolt anchor up and right. (30m, 5.6)

P2: Scamper up and a little left through easy ground and past two bolts to a two bolt rappel anchor. Clip the anchor and continue up past a bolt to some gear placements in hollow rock and a crazy bulge with thin holds. Clip another bolt to reach the anchor! (50m, 5.8)

P3-6: ??? I didn't do these pls add info if you get up there

Location

Way climbers left along the cliff line. Past the striking corner that's begging to be climbed, downhill to a nice clearing where you can see some bolts on the face above, then down a little more to reach the start of Ovos Na Chapa

Protection

12 alpine draws, nuts, and a single rack of cams .2-1

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Henrique at the top of P2
[Hide Photo] Henrique at the top of P2
Henrique following P1
[Hide Photo] Henrique following P1
Panic chalk below and to climbers right of the P1 anchors. To stay on route make sure you come into the anchor from climbers left!
[Hide Photo] Panic chalk below and to climbers right of the P1 anchors. To stay on route make sure you come into the anchor from climbers left!
Topo of Ovos na Chapa from Escaladas.com.br
[Hide Photo] Topo of Ovos na Chapa from Escaladas.com.br