There and Back Again

This route is dedicated to a good friend, Chris Gay, who perished while free soloing the Hobbit Book in Tuolumne Meadows shortly after this route was established.  A fan of the Lord of the Rings, Chris had climbed every LOTR themed climb in Tuolumne.  He is greatly missed.

"May the wind under your wings bear you where the sun sails and the moon waks."

A second classic 5.11 route now exists on the upper Tehipite Dome!  Taking the longest, most continuous path from the main ledge to summit, this route climbs some of the best granite in the Sierra (yeah, I said it).  Beautiful corners, bullet-proof slabs, and an ocean of holds, located high above the amazing and immaculate Tehipite Valley.  

This route was established over a 2 week period with multiple trips back and forth between the Dome and Crown Creek.  The route ascends the last, large blank area between AstroGil and One for the Homies.  No gear anchors needed.

Pitch 1:  5.11+ The Death Whistle.  The money pitch.  From the single bolt anchor at the awkward main ledge, climb the obvious gaping maw above your head.  First 6 feet of the route are the worst quality rock on the whole route.  Could use one more bolt to preclude the need for bringing a #6. Preclip low bolt on rapel.  Battle through 2 distinct cruxes using OW, stem, and chicken wing skills before busting left past 2 bolts (5.10) to the anchor.  Catch your breath.  30m.

Pitch 2: 5.11+ The money pitch. Immaculate face and slab climbing meandering up and left past a dozen or so bolts.  Beautiful movement.  Awesome.  Bust a move getting to the twin cracks and climb to the anchor with the huge ledge with the amazing view of the south face. Bring some gear for the twin cracks.  45m

Pitch 3: 5.9 PG-13 Kevin's Traverse.  The money pitch.  Make your way up and right to the base of the obvious corner above you.  Great gear but a tad run out in spots.  15m

Pitch 4: 5.11+ Cobra.  The money pitch.  Everything from tips to #5s.  This pitch is the enduro crux of the route.  1 bolt at the lip of the cobra head, great gear to the chains. So.  Good.  50m

Pitch 5: 5.10 Dexter's Lab.  The money pitch.  Follow the crack to a roof.  Bust the roof and keep climbing, you'll see.  Belay at the dirty ledge.  40m

Pitch 6: 5.10: The money pitch.  Bolts through the stem corner, or try your meddle in the 7s crack.  Meander left and right, easily avoiding the large bush.  Step across to the anchor.  35m

Pitch 7: 5.9 Chimney past 1 bolt, then step across the ledge to the 5.5 crack leading to Egg Ledge.  Worst pitch on the route.  35m

Pitch 8: 5.11a Egg.  The money pitch.  Follow the line of bolts up the slab above your head.  Slab your way up until you get spit out into the low angle crack system to your left.  Head for the base of the obvious corner above you.  The thin crack variation just below the ledge system goes at 5.11+ but could use a bolt or 2.  70m. 

Pitch 9: 5.10+.  The money pitch.  Beautiful and steep corner.  When the corner turns into a left trending roof, clip a bolt and bust an awesome move right around the arete on glorious knobs.  Follow bolts up and right to the anchor below the headwall.  Admire the endless sea of holds above you.  65m

Pitch 10: 5.6 PG13 Ocean 1.  The money pitch.  Cast off for a voyage through the desolate ocean of holds.  Bolts will be your guide, trending up and right on side of the steep and awesome mountain.  Find the next bolt off somewhere in the distance.  May be interesting at night,  Amazing.  11 bolts.  70m

Pitch 11: 5.6 PG13 Ocean 2.  The money pitch.  More of the same, but your feet are likely hurting.  Immaculate and perfect.  Keep following the line of bolts until you find safe harbor on Indecision Ledge.  Enjoy the view.  70m

Pitch 12: 5.8.  One final bit of slab climbing.  Enjoyable and celebratory climbing, with a high, but reasonable, first bolt.  Bolts to the chains on the summit where you'll live happily ever after, til the end of your days.   

See the main Tehipite page and multiple summit blogs on how to reach the summit of the Tehipite Dome.  Say hi to the face flies for us.

From the awesome and sandy perfect summit of Tehipite Dome, head due east toward the high country, staying left of a layer of large exfoliation blocks.  Below this layer, head right for 20 feet to find a set of anchors on the bedrock, don't judge us for where we put these anchors.  

Rap distances are as follow:

40m to Indecision Ledge

70m to headwall anchor (semihanging)

70m to base of headwall

70m to Lis ledge

70m to Egg Ledge (be careful pulling ropes, may get sucked into left crack)

35m to anchor skier's left  

35m to ledge below bolted corner

40m along obvious crack system

70m to anchor adjacent to huge ledge

45m aiming skier's left.  Follow bolts to P1 anchor

30m keep aiming hard skier's left to base of obvious gaping maw and one bolt anchor

 Route begins at the one bolt anchor on the awkward Main Ledge

2 full 70 meter ropes are required!

15 quick draws

Doubles to 4, Single 5