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FA: Bryan Teaters
Utah
> Southwest Utah
> Saint George
> Underworld
Access Issue: Some of the landowners have expressed that they do not want climbers crossing their land to access the cliff from the top (north).
Details
Unfortunately, some of the ranchers up above the cliff are not open to climbers crossing their land to reach the crag. In fall of 2024, we talked to a few landowners in the area above Underworld, and they were not happy with climbers accessing Underworld from above. We tried to chat with them about potential options that would make it reasonable for them, but they were confrontational and did not want to continue discussion.
I'm not sure if we met Trent specifically (the rancher mentioned in this photo/map showing access from the north
mountainproject.com/photo/1…), but some of the others in the area were not psyched. A user put together another map with landowner beta here, but it is emphasized that you must ask for permission first, which could be challenging:
mountainproject.com/photo/2….
It's best and simplest to take the original (long) approach from the south. Perhaps in the future we can work something out like an official easement trail, but for now, it seems unlikely. If you decide to track down a rancher and follow the northern approach beta in the photos/maps, you do so at your own risk.
Description
Start in a perplexing dihedral between columns. Then tech and stem your way up the fun flowy middle section to gain the upper shield feature. Pull around and over the steep shield, to a lower angle but still difficult crack sequence.
Two bolt anchor with fixed biners.
Protection