Type: Trad, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 12 pitches
FA: See PATAclimb.com
Page Views: 68 total · 19/month
Shared By: Brian Prince on Jan 7, 2025
Admins: Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Put up by a legend and freed by a legend. This is a very aesthetic route and is the most obvious line on the whole formation. It has maybe the most spectacular granite corner I have ever seen on it. As noted elsewhere, the rock is maybe not the best in the main part of the corner. But it is certainly acceptable.  

Pick your own adventure to get to the bottom of the corner. Some of these pitches were icy for us and required some aid and swinging around. 

The main corner is 3x60m pitches. Then it starts to angle right and the rock improves for a couple of pitches.

At an obvious spot, you will need to break out right out of the corner. This involves some truly heroic and overhanging climbing on mostly good holds. Then a crux traverse on a thin crack will be reached that felt pretty nails but has good gear. Incredible and exposed position.

A few more pitches will lead to the top.

Rap the Anglo-Americana

Location Suggest change

Via Polacos

Protection Suggest change

A healthy rack will be good. I think up to #5 will be ok.

Photos

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