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Purgatorium

M8, Trad, Mixed, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Tuttle and Adamson
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Provo Canyon > Provo Canyon Ice > Stairway to Heaven > Stairway to Heaven

Description

A fun bit of big mountain mixed climbing.  Don't be afraid to put away your tools and just rock climb some.  Goes without any ice, but below freezing may help the dirt stay frozen.

Pitch One:  Climb an easy left facing corner on gear to a ledge, then another slightly overhung left facing corner.  Go up to the next wall and belay from 2 pins.  M5, All gear

Pitch Two:  Climb a slab and a left facing corner a long ways to a bolt, then more left facing corner to a top out on a ledge with another bolt on the way.  Torquey.  M7, 2 bolts plus gear. 

Pitch Three: Climb a chossy chimney, then pull a roof on excellent hand jams.   Continue up and a little right and then a little left, then overhung.  M8, 8? bolts plus gear.

Location

Starts left of the highway wall route at the base of tier 2.  Pitch two can also be accessed on the ledge above tier 2.

Protection

Bolts, Rack of singles & nuts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sam starting Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Sam starting Pitch 3