King Cucudrulu
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 22 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Max Tepfer on Dec 31, 2024 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
The bolts in this panel of the wall are fairly confusing and the guidebook (Rockfax) really only provides partial clarity. The topo indicates starting up moderate terrain into the big hole to the right of the main buttress and then to quickly stepping left to bolts on the steep face. There's a bolt missing a hanger that would be a logical start to this and skip the shenanigans with the hole, (I stepped down and unclipped the 2nd draw after clipping the 3rd/first bolt on the left face) but the guidebook doesn't indicate going that way.
Either way, once you're on the face, fight through a relatively short lived crimping crux that deposits you at the end of the crux traverse on Via Yuyuba and finish on that line to the top. Confusingly at the crux of the 7a there are two bolts at the same height about a meter left and right of each other. (I think they might be there for different exits?) I clipped the left one, but could've just as easily clipped the right, which might have made more sense if finishing on El Oso y el Mandaron. (6a+ to the right)
Regardless of the gridbolting and confusion, the climbing is good and the rock is great. Maybe a touch hard for the grade relative to a lot of other crags in the region.
0 Comments