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Harrowing of Hades
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Type: | Trad, TR, 25 ft (8 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 29 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Todd Hinrichsen on Dec 28, 2024 |
Admins: | Zach Levy, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
The route starts at the bottom of the trench. Climb out of the trench and move right along the horizontal crack. Pull over the bulge on good edges to climb the arete and face to top.
Protection
A top rope can be set up using the glue-in bolt on top of the Trench Boulder.
The protection on this climb is not good but at least comes right before the crux moves. A small nut can be placed in the horizontal crack, and a hand placed beak or blade piton can be slotted into the diagonal crack that runs up to the arete. The belayer should position themself part way out of the trench in order to jump down in the event of a lead fall. A fall from the crux will likely end with the leader hitting the walls of the trench. A fall from higher up would surely result in a ground fall. Because of the trench you can actually lean across the gap and try out the key gear placements without leaving the ground.
The protection on this climb is not good but at least comes right before the crux moves. A small nut can be placed in the horizontal crack, and a hand placed beak or blade piton can be slotted into the diagonal crack that runs up to the arete. The belayer should position themself part way out of the trench in order to jump down in the event of a lead fall. A fall from the crux will likely end with the leader hitting the walls of the trench. A fall from higher up would surely result in a ground fall. Because of the trench you can actually lean across the gap and try out the key gear placements without leaving the ground.
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