Type: Sport, 2000 ft (606 m), 10 pitches
GPS: 50.6371, -115.1681
FA: Andy Genereux, Urs Kallen, & Choc Quinn, September 2023
Page Views: 647 total · 35/month
Shared By: Nate Slavin on Dec 24, 2024
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Thriller follows bolts on the ever-steepening sea of slab directly to the right of Joy. The rock quality is quite good for the region, but expect some loose rock within the micro-ledges all over the route. The climbing starts off with easier slab/edging, and increases gradually in difficulty as the angle kicks back; prepare for a relentless calf burn! The stated grade is 5.8+, but once you get into the groove of swimming up this slab, it feels a bit easier. The bolt line is straightforward, but bring some slings to decrease rope drag in key spots on the long pitches. All anchors are, as one would expect, bolted. I was happy to have a couple finger size pieces to rope up during the descent. This is a long route, with some areas of spaced-out bolting, and the approach and descent are not trivial, so don't expect a chill sport-cragging day!

Plan to spend 1hr on the approach, 2-6hrs on route, and 1-2hrs on the descent.

The pitches are as follows:

P1) 5.5, 60m, 12 bolts

P2) 5.6, 60m, 12 bolts

P3) 5.7, 55m, 12 bolts

P4) 5.8+, 55m, 12 bolts

P5) 5.8+, 55m, 12 bolts

P6) 5.8+, 60m, 14 bolts

P7) 5.7, 60m, 12 bolts

P8) 5.8+, 60m, 14 bolts

P9) 5.8, 60m, 12 bolts

P10) 5.8+, 60m, 14 bolts

Although possible to rap the route with 2x 60m ropes, it is not advised--rock fall should be mitigated as much as possible to avoid showering parties below (climbers below on Thriller AND Joy are at risk). Also, the walk-off is faster.

Location Suggest change

The route begins and ends a few meters climber's right of Joy, and so the approach/descent beta is identical.

Protection Suggest change

14-or-so alpine draws

The descent involves exposed 4th class traverses and scrambling, so a few 0.3 to 1.0 size cams may be desired.

Photos

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