Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Bolts: Jorge Visser, FA: Lauren Lee McCormick
Page Views: 28 total · 16/month
Shared By: Taylor Woodruff on Dec 11, 2024
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Starting on the uncomfortable belay slab just left of the best 12d in Southern Utah, pick your way up the technical and strenuous vertical face, through awkwardly positioned crimps and treacherous feet. Once you reach better holds around the sixth bolt, work your way up and left to a large, right-facing jug, which offers a slam dunk kneebar to those who are so inclined. Gather your wits and your mustard before traversing slightly right and tackling the bulge. Put your mouth guard in at the seventh bolt, because this crux may kick you in the teeth. After a series of exceptionally powerful moves on small, but decent holds, you'll begin to round the bulge, and if all of this has felt pretty chill so far, go ahead and clip the quick draw hanging in your face. Otherwise, pucker up and embrace the runout through a couple more cobra strike moves, which eventually ease as the angle does. I've taken the fall from the last hard move, having skipped the previous bolt, you will be ok. The anchor has been moved up since the Bible was printed, beckoning you to slither up some of the most beautiful and rope lacerating runnels I have ever seen. It may be best to downclimb (easy) and lower from the last bolt to spare your sheath. 

Location Suggest change

Left side of the wall, between Pussycat and Bastard Stepchild

Protection Suggest change

~12 fixed steelies. Fixed anchor

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