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NO-Xplode

M8, Sport, Mixed, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: Vitaliy Musiyenko, Erik Eriksson
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Provo Canyon > Provo Canyon Ice > Stairway to Heaven > Meat Your Maker Wall

Description

NO-Xplode is a pre workout supplement popular with gym bros. It was scientifically engineered to make sure your pump is massive - something you do not want while climbing. On this route however, you may feel like your forearms gonna file for divorce from your body...no pre workouts needed. Wasn't sure if this route was gonna belong to 'fitness den' area, but went along with that theme. :)

Bring a stick clip or do a m3 boulder problem to get to the first bolt in good rock. From there, nine more draws for a total of 10 quickdraws. Chain anchors added to the lip since rope drag from original anchor was horrible. Pulling rope or top roping was only possible with belayer walking 30-40 feet down the slope.
The route is well protected and has generally cool, varied climbing. The worst of it is choss at the start. After second bolt the climbing improves in quality and in difficulty.

Look for a hidden hole in the right side of the roof to undercling and allow you to reach a few edges above the overhang. In the second roof, there are a couple other crucial holes to undercling. After establishing yourself over the overhangs, the climbing becomes less pumpy and more technical, yet with solid tool placements available. Take your time at a rest stance before the final boulder problem through the last three bolts. Last moves to and above the lip are the crux, but you have a bolt at your waist and a very clean fall unless your belayer is sleeping. One can go to original anchor for full value experience or stop at the lip for a cleaner pull, your choice! :) We cleaned out the top out fairly well but it will never be clean since there is so much choss up above.

It’s hard to guess the difficulty because I haven’t drytooled for all that long. It’s definitely nowhere as physical as that M9 in Fitness Den but has trickier and more sustained climbing than SA (M8). My best guess that the route has two cruxes somewhere between M7+ and M8+. Tick and rate it so there is more of a consensus!

Location

This route is just left and around a corner from Trample Me Elmo. Starts below a set of massive roofs with yellow headwall with a thin splitter crack going up it. Look for bolts.

Protection

10 draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erik's redpoint
[Hide Photo] Erik's redpoint

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

NateC
Utah
[Hide Comment] Really great addition to the area. Fun climbing has me stoked to work on this one. Thanks for the work effort Vitaliy! Nov 22, 2024
Erik Eriksson
Colville, WA
M8-9
[Hide Comment] this one will blow your helmet off Nov 23, 2024
[Hide Comment] Is the top out cool, yes. Is it worth doing for rope drag, no. Recommend just stopping at the last bolt. Even a good tr off the last bolt. Jan 4, 2025
SirTobyThe3rd M
Salt Lake City
  M8
[Hide Comment] Since I noticed someone extended the anchor over the lip anyway and drag from original anchor is heinous, I added a bolt with a lowerout hook at the lip. So now you can lower out from the lip and TR without heinous drag. Whoever wants to do the original top out, it’s still an option. Jan 19, 2025
alex Mankouski
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Super cool route.
Make sure to bring a clip stick as the first bolt can be a little scary to clip as blowing the easy moves will leave you tumbling down the hill Oct 23, 2025