NO-Xplode

Bring a stick clip or do a m3 boulder problem to get to the first bolt in good rock. From there, ten more draws for a total of 11 quickdraws. Chain anchors. Very well protected and generally cool, varied climbing. The worst of it is choss at the start. After second bolt the climbing improves in quality and in difficulty.

Look for a hidden hole in the right side of the roof to undercling and allow you to reach a few edges above the overhang. In the second roof, there are a couple other crucial holes to undercling. After establishing yourself over the overhangs, the climbing becomes less pumpy and more technical, yet with solid tool placements available. Take your time at a rest stance before the final boulder problem through the last three bolts. Last moves to and above the lip are the crux, but you have a bolt at your waist and a very clean fall unless your belayer is sleeping. We cleaned out the top out fairly well and it doesn’t feel as gnarly scary as top outs at that other wall right of the Stairway.

It’s hard to guess the difficulty because I haven’t drytooled for all that long. It’s definitely nowhere as physical as that M9 in Fitness Den but has trickier and more sustained climbing than SA (M8). My best guess that the route has two cruxes somewhere between M7+ and M8+. Tick and rate it so there is more of a consensus!

This route is between Fitness Den and Trample Me Elmo, closer to Elmo. Just around the corner from it is a set of massive roofs with yellow headwall with a thin splitter crack going up it. That’s the route.