Not-so-grand Sorta-central (NS) Couloir

This steep snow gully sports a few mixed steps and is a fun romp in low-snow conditions. We climbed this in ~40cm of snow. With more snow the mixed steps likely disappear, and the gully could potentially even be skied. This route has very possibly been climbed or skied before (hence the descriptive rather than LOTR themed name), and we would love any information on historical ascents or names.

P1: M4-

The start of the gully proper is guarded by a short M3 boulder problem. Surmount this, wallow through some steep snow, and then climb a slightly longer M4- boulder problem. Belay off of the small tree on the right side of the gully (piton available to supplement).

P2: M2

From the belay, head up the steep snow ramp. In colder temperatures, this may be a straightforward snice romp, but on our ascent was a somewhat chossy mixed pitch with 10cm of snow on top. Continue up snow and turf to a piton belay on the left hand side of the pitch.

From here, continue up until the gully widens, and choose your own adventure to the top of the sub-summit. A few optional mixed boulder problems (~M3) add to the fun.

From the Phelix hut, work your way back around the lake to the 2nd slide path on Mt Shadowfax (~8min walk). Ascend the lower slopes through a talus field, up into the heart of the couloir. As the couloir steepens, it splits into two couloirs; take the (climber’s) right option at the fork.

To descend, head climbers left from the sub-summit towards the main summit, and walk down the main couloir, easily accessed from the saddle between the two summits. No rappels required.