Stay Out of My Blood Circle
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 24 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Kelston H on Nov 8, 2024 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
Description
First pitch goes about 5.6. Climb up an arete on the left to a small roof about 18' off the ground. Escape left on this roof and continue up the face with a small arete in the right. Be cautious here as it's a bit more dirty and licheny at the moment. Make a few commiting moves and high steps. Run up the last juggy ramp on some large blocks and the final mantle. Traditionally belayed here below the off width crack.
Pitch 2, starts with an off width crack with some good edges within and in the sides to layback of shift with. Hand and fist or calf and thigh sized crack (at least for me). At the top of this brief crack you'll do a face traverse left to the Corvid Ledge. It can be a little commiting mantling up onto this platform but worth it for the roof access. Come into the roof from the right underneath the large looming blocks. Squirm up till you get some good hands. Make a blind reach to the next roof section and pull through. Do not pull out right onto the face until after you're standing on top of the roofs. This next section is characterized by a brief slight overhang with iffy edges recommend popping into the Odie After Dark Arete at this point. Taking this last bit direct adds unnecessary risk and doesn't take away from the difficulty or climb really.
Var 1: After popping out above the off width crack, finish on the Odie After Dark Arete.
Var 2: after climbing the roof crux, keep going up straight with the arete on the right. Best done if following.
Var 3: Cut left into Khonsu's Flail finish.
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