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Buick Repairs

5.11-, Sport, Alpine, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Peter Tsongalis, Casey Elliott, Cameron Miekle
Nevada > Western Nevada > Santa Rosa Range > Paradise Valley > Cleft

Description

P1: 5.11-, 13 bolts, 40 meters. Climb the first route to the right up of the cave. Easy start and trend left trend left above the cave, eventually to sustained terrain. Flirt with the black streak before trending back right to the anchors above the black bugle. Rappelling with an 80 meter will get you to the cave but tie a knot in the rope.  

P2: 5.6. 4 bolts, short pitch. Pretty easy romp on good holds. Trend left after the first bolt. Belay before the roof with the black streak. 

P3: 5.10, 7 or 8 bolts. Climb the black streak through the roof on pockets and occasional jugs, but watch out for the final slam dunk hold may be full of water. After mantleing, climb a few more bolts then trend left 10 feet to the third pitch anchors of 3 anchors of Brap machine paradise. 

P4: 5.7, same as Brap machine paradise. 3 bolts then trend left to meet with the final 2 or 3 bolts of the dream machine. 

Location

Start up the ramp to the right of the cave, but left of Steve. 

Protection

At least 13 QuickDraws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pete hand drilling in Paradise
[Hide Photo] Pete hand drilling in Paradise
Cam rapping off the first pitch, the climbing is mostly to the right of the rap line. Pete rapping from the third pitch anchors over the roof portion of pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Cam rapping off the first pitch, the climbing is mostly to the right of the rap line. Pete rapping from the third pitch anchors over the roof portion of pitch 2
Red: Buick Repairs, Green: Brap Machine Paradise.
[Hide Photo] Red: Buick Repairs, Green: Brap Machine Paradise.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Casey Elliott
Reno, NV
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Felt like a slightly easier version of Steve. The roof was a fun boulder problem! Oct 27, 2024
Casey Elliott
Reno, NV
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] If anyone else wanted to - you could take the third pitch straight up to it’s own anchors, then add an independent 4th pitch to the summit either in the direction of dream machine or blue eyes. Oct 28, 2024