PRINT: Rock Climb Puddin', Taos Area

Puddin'

5.6, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > S Rock

Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Also, this is a seasonal raptor nesting area. Details

See the USGS topo map mountainproject.com/photo/1… showing the private property boundaries (shaded areas).

The landowner requests NO fires, no trash, no chalk and "please close any gates". Basically, be a good steward of the land.

In order to nurture greater landowner acceptance of climbers, participants of group climbs are requested to organize quick clean up activities before leaving the area; this should include the climbing area as well as the access roads (trip leaders could supply plastic grocery bags). Small parties should practice "leave no trace" principles.

An online Tres Piedras Route Guide lamountaineers.org/Tres_Pie… from LA Mountaineers has been updated with the latest access information, and should be read by all Tres Piedras climbers. Group climb leaders, and Climbing Directors (future or past) should take particular note.

Seasonal Raptor Nesting:
This climbing area is shared with raptors that nest on the cliffs. Help us maintain access and please avoid climbing near active nests/ledges that raptors are using. If a raptor is disturbed during nesting season it may exhibit aggressive defensive behaviors like vocalizing or dive-bombing. If you witness this behavior, retreat from your climb immediately and find a location on a different formation or a different part of the wall far enough away from the raptors that they are no longer noticeably agitated. If they remain agitated, then please leave the area immediately.
Raptor awareness is especially important during nesting season from mid-February to late May but needs to be considered through the end of August. Please report disturbed and/or nesting raptors to the Carson National Forest the appropriate district office (see below) and share relevant information here on MP. Human-raptor encounters can have negative impacts for the birds and climbers in the area. The Cason NF wants to maintain climbing access while protecting raptor reproduction and relies on climbers to recreate responsibly and share information in order to avoid the need for formal raptor closures.

Questa Ranger District
(575) 586-0520
Camino Real (Comales Canyon) Ranger District
(575) 587-2255
Tres Piedras Ranger District
(575) 758-8678
El Rito Ranger District
(575) 581-4554

Location

At the west end of South Rock. R of "Yikes Dike". See reference photo.

Description

At the W (west) end of South Rock there is a substantial, sloping, R (right) facing corner sporting a fat crack at its base. Follow this as it gradually steepens, then angle L (left) at its terminus into a shorter, more vertical, crack that leads to some low angle friction (reference photo). Continue past the below-mentioned bolt (from the original description below) to the anchor on the N (north) side. Note: The aforementioned bolt didn't look ancient to my eye, so I'm guessing it was replaced at some point in time.

Descent: Rappel from the fixed anchor on the N side (climber's left) into the crevasse and then scramble off 3rd class-ish terrain to the W (climber's/rappeller's right). This will return you to a point very near the start of the climb. CAVEAT EMPTOR: a 60m rope will not reach the ground, but... it ~~will~~ "should" after it's weighted. And... It WILL take considerable effort to retrieve your rope due to the anchor being situated a fair distance back from the lip. This is lovely for getting in position to start the rap, but you may have to tie a friction hitch (klemheist, or...) to the rope, clip it to your belay loop and use your full body weight to get it started. Once you have a sufficient amount of rope out you can decrease the angle by pulling from the higher ledge behind you. NOTE: There is also reported to be a rappel off of the opposite (south) side, but I have not used it.

Verbatim description from the Los Alamos Mountaineers original Tres Piedras Guide which is available online here: https://www.lamountaineers.org/Tres_Piedras/Tres_Piedras_Route_Guide.html

(5.6 , I, 1-1/2 pitches, B.P.) "This climb is just an inch over a pitch and ends at an old bolt left by some prehistoric carnivore, the climb begins at the low angle slab on the west tip of South Rock, a nice beginners climb as it envolves climbing in a jam crack and low angle friction, from the top of the jam crack to the bolt there is a slight lead out but the angle is low."

Protection

Kitchen sink. I found tricams to be VERY useful along with cams and stoppers. You will want to extend at least some of your runners to reduce rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Puddin'

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ

5.6

Does anyone know what the B.P. stands for in the original route description? (see above) Oct 22, 2024

Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ

5.6

Thanks Dan, Bomb proof seems appropos, but I'm stuggling to correlate the "E" in the description for "Quartz Delight" (see below) in terms of protection:

ROCK CLIMBS AT TRES PIEDRAS - UNO ROCK WESTROCK= #1
1. QUARTZ DELIGHT ( 5.5, I, 1 pitch, E. ) : good beginner's friction but protection thin at top but angle very low, walk up gulley on West side of this rock, climb begins on your right to left of large flake on face, climb up, then bear right up crack between flake and face, go up to top, exit by walking East then descend gulley going South. Oct 22, 2024

Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ

5.6

Dan G said: "If I remember correctly, E. = Extreme and E.D. = Extremely Dangerous/Deadly."

And I reply: "Good to know. I didn't find a key to those abbreviations in the original documents." Oct 23, 2024