Chilly Dogs

Chilly Dogs is a six pitch extension of the single pitch Hot Dogs (5.9) climbed by Paul Gagner and Jim Woodmency in 1986. Slings were found on the large tree at the top of pitch two, but it’s unclear if these are bail slings from the nearby Vieux Guide, or from previous traffic above Hot Dogs. No fixed gear or signs of previous passage were found above pitch two, and according to the third edition of A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range this is the first route to penetrate the overhanging quarter-mile wide sector of black rock east of Guide’s Wall and Blobular Oscillations, which yielded two wild and unlikely pitches linking discontinuous cracks via subtle ledges, roofs and blank faces to a logical conclusion on a subtle pinnacle of Storm Point’s Southwest Ridge. The first ascent was done onsight, ground-up and without any fixed gear. The route openers returned and fixed three pitons on the S-Pitch (pitch five), one to supplement a limited opportunity belay ledge and two others to make an otherwise R rated 5.10- lead significantly safer. The route has been wire brushed and trundled where feasible, though some stretches of grit and lichen will remain for many ascents. Thankfully, any suspect stone of dangerous magnitude is easily avoided by the mindful alpine climber. As a whole, Chilly Dogs sports surprisingly solid rock in an accessible area with a nice selection of exciting and adventurous pitches, and a streamlined descent.

Pitch One - Hot Dogs (5.9): 40 meters of awesome. Climb easy rock into a shallow left facing corner beneath the prominent roof of Bat Attack Crack. At the roof, bust out right following a right leaning crack and flake system with sustained 5.9 laybacking and jamming capped by a small roof. The lower part of this crack has a large (~25 square foot) wafer-thin flake that is attached at the base, does not flex, but should NOT be used for protection. Hopefully this is very obvious. A shallow crack above the flake accepts good small protection. Above the roof, a few body lengths of unprotected 5.7 slab lead to a small ledge, which is traversed left to a fixed two nut anchor.

Pitch Two - THE Flake Pitch (5.7): Avoid the obvious loose blocks directly above the belay. A miraculous cabin-sized flake forms a left facing corner with a gaping crack. Squeeze behind the flake or layback the outside, both are 5.7. Atop the flake, aim for the obvious large tree above, passing a short vegetated corner. Belay from tree.

Pitch Three (5.5): Clamber up nondescript mountain terrain to a large grassy ledge. Many paths are available here. Belay from gear on the large grassy ledge before the steepening clean slabs of the Sea of Dihedrals.

Pitch Four - Sea Of Dihedrals (5.7/5.8 R): Many fractured, low angle, open book dihedrals defend the steeper upper black headwall of pitches five and six. Following the path of least resistance up and slightly left yielded clean 5.7 slab climbing with little protection, to steeper cracks with better protection. There’s clearly multiple ways through this terrain, hence the variable grade. Aiming for the obvious broken black rock section of the large roof overhanging the entire face, the only section where passage through the roof looks viable, is useful for orientation. Belay at a short but deep cave with a rock stack using a horizontal crack at head height.

Move Belay - If climbing the S-Pitch (recommended), consider moving the belay to a semi-hanging stance using the starting crack, 3 meters east of the cave.

Pitch Five - S-Pitch (5.10-, PG13): Two pitons were added on lead during the second ascent to make this pitch more civilized. Boulder a short black crack with a fixed lost arrow piton just right of the belay (5.9) and mantle onto a big ledge. Clip an angle piton below an intimidating overhang which can be reinforced with marginal thin gear. Move through the overhang on sloping holds into a shallow dihedral containing a crack for protection (5.10-). Above the roof, traverse left on black slabs, climb a short wall of unprotectable jugs to an alcove, then trend back right on a low angle slab split by an attractive finger crack to a sizable belay ledge with a fixed angle piton. Your rope will form an “S” shape (hence the name), but proper use of long runners should prevent relevant rope drag. Small nuts and cams are needed for the belay.

Pitch Five Variation: The Direct (V3, 5.9): Surmount the cave directly with overhanging wizardry, utilizing the left trending crack providing hand jams and ring locks. Folks that can do twenty pull-ups might think this is 5.9. Folks that can only do two pull-ups might say 5.11+. Once above the cave, traverse left on slabs to an amazing layback flake with a very loose block at its head. Climb directly up and join the S-Pitch at the alcove. While this pitch has been free climbed without touching the block, the potential catastrophe for both leader and follower warrants extreme caution.

Pitch Six - Jungle Crack (5.10-): Boulder a tricky 5.8 move left off the belay to a slabby ledge system that traverses back right with uninspiring protection (5.6R). Follow this ledge system until the wall overhead breaks into a right facing corner with an attractive steep hand crack. The start of this corner is visible from the belay. Crank up the physical and reasonably dirty, yet surprisingly solid and fun crack system with good protection to a small belay tree. Make sure to admire the exposure from the final moves. The route openers would welcome the fixing of a thin piton before the 5.6R slab traverse.  

Pitch Seven (5th Class): A short step of easy fifth class is followed by a rope length of third class to the route conclusion on a small step of Storm Point's Southwest Ridge. The short fifth class step can also be easily combined with pitch six facilitating an unroped scramble for pitch seven.

Descent: Traverse a very exposed 5.4 ledge directly west to a large tree with slings. Two double rope rappels, the first from the tree and the second from a fixed piton/nut anchor, lead to the second rappel of Guide's Wall. Three more rappels from trees and fixed anchors to the ground. Scramble east to regain approach.

When the Guide’s Wall approach trail nears the base of the steep south face of Storm Point, depart the trail and scramble 100-150 feet of steep fourth class ledges (some loose rock) to the base of the route. The gigantic and arcing roof of Bat Attack Crack (5.11) is a prominent landmark. Hot Dogs, the first pitch of Chilly Dogs, follows the crack exiting right before the Bat Attack roof. This ledge is also home to the start of Vieux Guide (5.10, II). Packs can either be hung from a tree on this ledge, or from trees at the base of Guide’s Wall.

Double set cams #0.3 to #2. Single set cams #3 and #0.2 to smallest micro size. One set nuts. At least two 120cm slings. One Knifeblade or thin Lost Arrow piton could be added to pitch six. Two ropes for descent.