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Zenith

V6 R, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: JP
Vermont > 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Smugglers' Notc… > Boulders Behind… > Bat Cave/ Penumbra Area
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Description

This is the super prominent and highball arete climbed from a sit and following it all the way to the tippy top!

More detailed beta if you want it:

Sit down start on the arete, climb up using arete tension and possibly an undercling out left. Using either good tension on the arete or a big move, gain the horizontal ledge hold. You can get a good stance matched on the arete and with feet on the ledge. Embrace your inner sport climber and try to depump a little for the upper crux. This is a good spot to bail if you are unsure. Steel your mind and continue up the arete making use of some holds out left. There is a left crimper or undercling pinch depending on your sequence. Grab the big horn using one of several methods and make one more dicey sequence to grab the lip! The lip is good. Traversing left a little bit makes the topout not so bad. I advise going up and making sure the lip holds are not wet before making an attempt. I would break this down as a V5 first half into a V4 upper half. 

Zenith and it's neighboring line to the left are essentially the same topout with different starts. Since the different starts are distinct different cruxes, it seems to make sense to add them as separate lines. 

It is worth mentioning that Zenith is essentially the continuation of Bill Patton's Slapjack, finishing all the way up the arete instead of rocking onto the slab. 

Location

On the same boulder as Penumbra. This is the super obvious arete that is one of the first things you see when you enter the bat cave area. 

Protection

Pads! Some rope rehearsal for the top is a good idea. I would recommend 5 pads at least.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dante on the upper crux
[Hide Photo] Dante on the upper crux
Working and cleaning the tall arête.
[Hide Photo] Working and cleaning the tall arête.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jake Perry
Concord, NH
  V6 R
[Hide Comment] All the credit here belongs to Brad Fauteux who was the one to clean the topout as well as the rest of the face. Brad first established the line to the left stand starting matched on the super obvious diagonal pinch rail, which is also a classic V6ish. Dante Jelinek put up a sit to that which goes around V7/8. I started sitting on the arete. Dante and I did no cleaning, just climbing. Big props to Brad for the efforts! Both of these lines in my mind are some of the best the Notch has to offer. Tall, committing, awesome moves, cool holds, good rock and a landing that can be safely padded. Bring a big crew and get psyched! Oct 7, 2024