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The Crenulator

5.14b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Rizzler, Phor
Colorado > Morrison/Evergr… > Gretel's Rock

Description

This route links The Facilitator into Crenulated to create the hardest, most sustained route on the wall. Climb The Facilitator to bolt two, then stretch high, and clip the link-up bolt for Ego Death - a long sling is helpful here. Move through Ego Death's crux to join Crenulated, shake out as best you can, then finish with the crux of Crenulated. I climbed up and left past the anchors to the no-hands stance then climbed back down to lower off. 

The route is very bouldery and conditions-dependent with the hardest moves at the top, making it a cool exercise in energy management and power-endurance. Darth Grader gave this 8c if I plugged in V5 + good rest + V7 + medium rest + V9. You make the call on the rating.

Here's an epic banger of failing on the route then screaming an F-bomb one climbing day before the send: https://youtu.be/XuvY4K-sAVI.

Location

It is on the left/center of the north face.

Protection

5 bolts with a long sling on bolt 3 and extendos on bolts 4 + 5.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Moving into the traverse crux linking the Facilitator into Crenulated; this is the shared crux with Ego Death.
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Photo by David Hume.
[Hide Photo] Moving into the traverse crux linking the Facilitator into Crenulated; this is the shared crux with Ego Death. Photo by David Hume.