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Ingalls Error

5.7 PG13, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Andy Kish & Adam Moorad
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Ingalls Peak

Description

Located on the southeast face of Ingalls, this variation follows the right-facing dihedral up the left side of the face, traversing right via a juggy horizontal crack to a belay. From there, the line proceeds up loose rock through a small overhanging roof to the top of the face. While other variations exist, this route offers a wandering alternative to the other lines already established on this wall.

Pitch 1 - 5.7, 50m: From the left side of the base, follow the dihedral up to a juggy, horizontal crack traversing right. Small cams up to the traverse.  A long runner before traversing will minimize rope-drag.  Beware of loose rock!  A gear belay can be worked into the terminus of the horizontal crack, or use the obvious rappel station at the right flank of the face. 

Pitch 2 - 5.7 PG-13, 40m: This is a variation of the second pitch of Friends in High Places. Make your way up easy climbing and somewhat loose rock finding gear placements as you go.  Once you reach the roof look for a large crack on the right side of the wall.  Place protection in the large crack if you can, find good feet and the jugs, pucker up and pull through the crux of the pitch! Runout to the top. There are no bolts or rings at the top so be prepared to build an anchor.  Sling one of the fridge-sized knobs for your rappel anchor. Due to the amount of loose rock, we assumed pitch rarely sees action. 

Location

See approach for neighboring Friends In High Places.

The climb begins at the bottom of the obvious right-facing dihedral on the far left side of the face. Belay from the leftmost side of the base to avoid rockfall.

Protection

Standard rack with slings, maybe a one big cam (4/5?) for the roof crack. Extra cord required for rappel anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topping out on Pitch #2
[Hide Photo] Topping out on Pitch #2
Pitch #1
[Hide Photo] Pitch #1
Ingalls Error in GREEN. Friends in High Places dotted in YELLOW.
[Hide Photo] Ingalls Error in GREEN. Friends in High Places dotted in YELLOW.