Type: Trad, 385 ft (117 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tom Geraughty, Robbie Frenz, and Tom Berry. August 1969
Page Views: 39 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mike Toffey on Sep 11, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A forgotten but fun and quick route up the Nazgûl Wall of Mariuolumne Dome brought to you by the brainchild of Dike Route! Makes for a nice add-on to climbs topping out on the West Face of Medlicott Dome. 

Pitch 1: Climb the easy bumpy slabs up to the obvious wide splitter crack. Step into the crack and follow to its end at a small headwall with a piton. Clip the piton and pull a few harder moves up to the base of a clean dihedral.
Belay takes 0.3-1in gear. (5.8) 190ft

Pitch 2: Head up the clean lieback with tricky gear. Near the top there is a small pocket in the seam in the back of the corner that will take a blue 0.3 totem to protect the crux. A blue C4 is too wide and will not fit. Above the lieback head up and then right towards the next obvious blocky corner, clipping a piton along the way. Continue with easy climbing above the blocky dihedral and follow a pair of shallow double cracks up to Meneltarma Ledge.
Belay takes 0.75-2in gear. (5.8R-) 195ft

3rd class over the top and down to the notch between Nazgûl Wall and Mariuolumne Dome. Quick scramble up to the summit or back down to the base once you cross this notch.

A 70m rope will help with the long pitches described here and in the Reid guide but you could break this down into 3 shorter pitches as described in the new Tuolumne guidebook as well.

Location Suggest change

Look for the splitter crack on a huge slab just left of the last large roof on the lower half of the left side of Nazgûl Wall. (See Overlay)

Protection Suggest change

Gear 0.3-4 & nuts. Blue Totem to protect the crux on pitch 2 and a single #4 is sufficient to protect the wide crack on pitch 1.

Photos

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