Type: Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches
FA: C. Harder, W. Josi. (1997)
Page Views: 19 total · 6/month
Shared By: James H on Sep 9, 2024
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: (5b) Scramble up a gully to a ledge, then traverse left to a terrace clipping one bolt along the way. 

P2: (6a+) This is a fantastic pitch! Start by climbing up the right side (the left probably works too) of the two crack systems. Clip a bolt, then move back left to rejoin the crack. Continue up a splitter crack until you reach another bolt on the right. Climb past it, navigating a bit of exposure. Move out right with the bolt near your waist, then continue up a steep crack system to reach a terrace.

P3: (5a) Climb up a short way and then scramble up to the next belay on a nice ledge -- slightly to the left. 

P4: (6a) Climb up and left  (it's also possible to go straight up the wide cracks/chimney)to reach a fantastic crack. Then, traverse right, clipping a bolt as you go. Continue up to the next belay, either going straight up or traversing all the way right.

P5: (5c) Climb the incredible dihedral. 

P6: (6a A0, 7a) Climb up the corner, clipping two bolts, traverse out right on hero jugs and hand jams while smearing your feet. Then, climb up to a right-facing roof. Clip the high bolt and either down climb to pull the 7a move or aid to some face climbing and a thing crack to reach to the anchor up and left.  

P7: (6a) Move left and climb a dihedral with an incredible system of cracks. Follow two bolts to exit the dihedral out left. Then, continue up the corner system to the top of a tower with a visible gap between it and the rest of the cliff. 

P8: (6a) Climb up past the rap station and continue on to the fantastic slab, climbing on beautiful orange granite. Pass and anchor (Do not go to the left of the anchor. It's for a separate route). Instead, continue straight up the slab or chimney to easier ground to reach the anchor. 

From here, it's possible to scramble to the summit. 

Descent: Rappel the route. Note it's worth using the alternative anchor you passed at the start of P8.

Location Suggest change

Approach Aiguille sans Nom. The route starts in a notable gully with a terrace to the left. The bolt, protecting the traverse from the chimney to the terrace, is visible from the ground. Le retour en Afrique is 20m right of the Moonlight trophy (notable as it has a fixed line hanging from the base). Thus, if you see the fixed line, you have gone too far left. See the photos for a picture of the base. 

Protection Suggest change

#0.3-#3

Photos

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