Type: Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches
FA: Walter Josi, Anna-Barbara Etter, Benno Treier (2001)
Page Views: 24 total · 9/month
Shared By: James H on Sep 9, 2024
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1: (5b) Move outright and climb up great cracks until you reach the relay.

P2: (6a) Incredible corner climbing. It is truly a pity there are so many bolts. 

P3: (5c) Climb up, trending right and then up and left. 

P4: (6a) Step out left and climb up another fantastic crack system to easier ground. Trend right and up to find the belay.

P5: (6a) Go slightly right, then surmount the overhang. 

P6: (5c+) Step out right, clip a bolt, and work down to the base of a fantastic crack system! Follow it up to easier terrain to find the anchor.

P7: (5c+) Startup what looks like a slab but has many positive holds. They continue into incredible rock with great jams and stemming.

P8: (5c+) *didn’t do as it would get dark. Please replace soon.

Descent: Rappel the route. Note it can be helpful to use the rap station right of the second anchor. Take care to allow for enough time to descend, it's easy to get the rope stuck when rapping this route.

Location Suggest change

This climb is located below the highest peak of the Aiguille Sans Nom. It is left of the Moonlight trophy, which is notable when you pass it as it has a fixed line hanging from the base. After you see the fixed line, go further a little and find the base (see photos).

Protection Suggest change

#0.4-#2.

Photos

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