Nicaraguan Nut Butter
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 1200 ft (364 m), 12 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Jason Haas, Greg Miller, 7/13 |
Page Views: | 26 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jonathan S on Sep 7, 2024 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
P1. Climb the low angle chimney, sometimes stemming across and sometimes inside. Reach an alcove up and left. You can set an optional belay here with big gear (200'), or continue up the offwidth on the left (220+'; simulclimbing might be required, even with a 70m rope). This has some crumbly rock, 5.7 R.
P2. From the lower belay, climb the offwidth to a blocky corner. Climb the wide crack left of the corner that narrows to hand size. Belay at a ledge with sand and loose rock, 5.8.
P3. Climb up to the horizontal crack under the huge overhang. Traverse to the right. Clipping the bolt on the slab along the way is optional (the guidebook suggests climbing straight up to the bolt, but that seemed dicey). Traverse all the way to a mossy/grassy ledge next to the huge corner. **Note** we climbed this two days after a big rainstorm, and there were streams of water coming from under the crack onto the ledge requiring aid climbing to finish this pitch. Considering how much moss and other vegetation there is, it's probably wet much of the time. 5.9.
P4. Step right from the belay to the corner, and climb the initially steep crack, which becomes less steep after 20 feet. Climb past bushes to a pillar, navigate around it to the left, and belay. **Note** there was a stream of water coming down this crack, necessitating some aid climbing to start the pitch, 5.9.
P5. Continue up low-angle slap in the corner to the overhanging squeeze chimney. Tunnel up through the chimney, using a flexing 2" flake on the right wall to help make progress. I had to take my helmet off and move gear off the back of my harness to fit through. There is a chockstone 2/3 the way up that took gear. At the top, I stayed in in the chimney and continued to scoot up until there was a crack for gear, enabling a safer exit onto the slab. Continue up to a wide horizontal crack on the right. We belayed here, 5.9.
P6. Climb the runout out slab to the left. There is a crack 25 feet directly left that takes gear. Continue on the slab or drop down to the alcove with a big wall on the left. Climb up the slab with some wide cracks or the blocky and bushy gully until you find a spot to belay, 5.8 R.
P7. Continue up blocky and bushy steps, past a large chockstone (crux), to a tree on a large ledge and belay, 5.8.
P8. Climb the wide crack 15 feet, set gear, and then traverse right across unprotected slab to another wide crack that trends left. Climb the wide crack on up to a tree belay, 5.6.
P9. Climb up chossy steps to the forest, 5.4.
There are multiple options to climb to the top from the forest. Coil the rope, and move to the base of your exit route. Looking straight back towards the middle of the wall, we chose the crack system to the left of the broken terrain with a huge, right-facing corner. Left of the corner is blank rock. We didn't find these pitches described elsewhere (the guidebook or MP).
P10. Climb up the cracks in the right-facing corner over a fallen tree (climbable in 2024) to a large alcove, 5.8.
P11. Climb the offwidth crack until it ends. I found it helpful to bump a 6 for several feet in two separate sections. It gets steep at the top, but hand jams (and hand-sized gear) can be found in the back of the crack. When the crack peters out, transition around the arete to the right where there is a horizontal and descending finger crack. Climb the finger crack to easier terrain. Move up and right, and belay at a comfortable position, 5.10-.
P12. Climb wide cracks and slabs to the top, 5.8.
Location
It is left of Rotten Teeth right where the base of the rock starts going uphill to the left.
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