Type: Sport, 1500 ft (455 m), 11 pitches
FA: A Precht, G Wenger, & S Brachmayer
Page Views: 18 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ansel Higgs on Sep 7, 2024
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath

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Description Suggest change

A great mix of textured face and slab climbing, with two long pitches up sharp, water cut grooves at the end. There is only one brief walking interruption to the route around the halfway point, this can also serve as a shortcut into the descent, but skips the best pitches of the route.

P1: Continue up a left trending slab with a few small bulges. P2: Cross a wide, loose chimney, then continue up a few water cut grooves onto an easy slab. An abrupt left traverse leads to the anchor (you can also link the grassy band at the start of pitch 3). P3: cross a short grassy band to the right, then continue up a stemming chimney with an exit on the left. P4: easy climbing past a few bolts to a grassy band, walk/simul ~40m right along the band to the anchor at the start of pitch 5. P5: cross a snow-polished slab to an anchor on a ledge under the headwall on the other side of a gully (snow hazard in early summer). P6, 7: continue up rough slab on the steepening wall. P8 (crux): start left up a dihedral, then exit to the right and cross a tricky, vertical, but featured slab. A few bolts of easier climbing lead to a brief roof pull and leftwards move to the anchor. P9: traverse a few meters left until you are underneath an endless-looking water cut groove. Climb the groove and destroy your shoes for ~40m. P10: continue destroying your shoes up the flattening groove. P11: continue up easy, red colored rock with a slight right traverse to the final anchor and the start of the rappel route.

Link to topo

Location Suggest change

Cross the middle of the scree field aiming at an easy-to-climb looking weakness. Climb a few meters of easy 5th to reach a small ledge and anchor at the start of the first pitch.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts and bolted anchors. 50m half ropes for rappelling. Potentially mid sized cams for the P9&10.

Descent Suggest change

To descend, rappel 4x ~50m into the gully below the upper half of the route. There is now a dedicated rappel route and you don't need to use the anchors of the neighboring "Glasperlenspiel" route. 

Once in the gully, head down and left, over loose rock and a few easy climbing sections. Once the trail flattens and becomes grassy, continue east/southeast, eventually meeting back into trail 430 towards "Mitterfeld Alm" and eventually to the parking lot.

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