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Circumtraversigate

5.8+, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Jon Kettle & Rowan Smart
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Okanagan > Lonely Crags > Lonely Island

Description

Starting at Ticks in My Pants, climb up three bolts and traverse right (recommended to use runners for bolts two and three to manage rope drag), clipping the third or fourth bolt of each route along the face until reaching the anchors of The Best Thirty Seconds of my Life. Either top-belay the follower from here or lower and belay off the ground (using a runner at the anchor to reduce drag). This makes for excellent multi-pitch practice.  The 5.8 crux lies between Cakewalker and Nautical Theme Pashmina Afgan. Bring 12 quickdraws, 2 standard runners, and one long runner to manage rope drag.

A few words of warning:

  • Please be respectful and do not attempt the adventurous-feeling Lonely Island traverse while other parties are cragging and be especially mindful of the wider bolt spacings. 
  • Several sections of the route have decking potential coupled with friable rock. 
  • All climbers in a party should feel competent leading each of the wall’s routes before committing to Circumtraversigate, regardless of whether they are on TR or lead. F.A. Jon Kettle & Rowan Smart (2024).

The route can be climbed in the other direction as well, but is more enjoyable left to right.

Location

Starting at Ticks in my Pants, ending at The Best Thirty Seconds of my Life, spanning the entire wall.

Protection

Bolts, Anchors.