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Kleptocratic Authority
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in 4. Right Shoulder
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Art of Kravat, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Awkward Snuggie Creep T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Great Value Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Kleptocratic Authority T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Precursor Legacy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake Fall T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Veldora T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Vigil of Juna T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 40.05653, -76.63458 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 51 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Kelston H on Aug 30, 2024 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Choss and Access
Details
WARNING: Due to the minimal mileage this crag has seen over the decades expect to encounter choss and bring a helmet. Lines clean up with enough traffic, similar to how Chickies, Gunks or Seneca have cleaned up, but they do not get that way right away. Be cautious and consider top roping (or at least top rope or rappel inspect) a line first.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Access:
Climbing is now a recognized and approved activity at this park. Below is the agreement with DCNR.
Rock alterations by chipping, chiseling, sculpting, drilling, defacing, or gluing/epoxying of holds (hand and foot) is not permitted. This restriction also includes the practice of dry tooling, which involves using ice climbing tools on rock surfaces.
SCPC is the only entity that is allowed to install fixtures and will remove any non-SCPC owned or installed fixtures when doing routine maintenance. Rivets and pitons are not permitted.
Removing vegetation of any type to clear a climbing route is not permitted.
Temporary anchors may be used as long as they are removed after use.
Should a tree be used for climbing purposes, padding will be used to prevent the rope, sling, or chain from damaging the tree.
Chalk use should be minimized, used in a bag, and holds should be brushed off if heavily chalked.
Climbing or rappelling within a known habitat of any rare, threatened, or endangered plant or animal species or in areas determined by PA DCNR to be ecologically significant is not permitted.
PA DCNR may close entire formations or climbing routes permanently or on a temporary basis. Closures may include but are not limited to natural resource protection, unsafe conditions, or park maintenance activities.
Description
Low roof crux that's pulled through in crimps. Follow the crack that trends slightly right and is a few feet left of the dihedral gully. Make some good committing mantles and reach between jugs and surprisingly good edges. Final bit involves the blunt left arete and some fun face moves. Use of trees as holds is off to keep the line true.
Variation 1: at the lower roof crux traverse right to the gully route, step up on a pedestal and work your way back left on a rail.
Variation 2: step left at the upper mini roof just below the top out.
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