Pilier de la Pissechèvre
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Sport, 7 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.19854, 7.02801 |
| FA: | Philippe Gay, Laurent Monnet 2002-03 |
| Page Views: | 73 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | James H on Aug 29, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn |
Description
P1 (6a): This is the left bolt line. Start up a short corner section, pass a belay and continue up and right to a shared anchor.
V1 (5c): This is the right bolt line. Climb up a left-facing side of a large corner, continue toward a crack in the roof, and up a small arete to a the belay.
P2 (5c+): Continue up the face to a comfortable belay.
P3 (6a): This is a fantastic climb up a steeper section. If you find the movement getting harder than the grade, consider moving to the left. Belay on a comfortable ledge.
*Move the belay off the top of the first arete to the base of a left-facing corner.
P4 (5c+): Climb up while clipping two bolts. Walk to a second face and continue up. Belay on a right-facing wall below two bolt lines.
P5 (5c): Startup and make sure to stay left (the right set of bolts is a new route called Gambit and goes at 7a). Great climbing leads to an aesthetic belay at the base of the inspiring next pitch.
P6 (6a+): The money pitch. It's crazy how the best climbing on this route is somehow located in the best position possible. The whole climbing is thoughtful and sustained at the grade. I was surprised by how such great holds were consistently placed in such a beautiful place.
P7 (5b): Walk up to the left, climb a short face with two bolts, and belay at the top with a great view. This is a short pitch.
Descent: Follow the path left from the top of the cliff. It will work its way across and slightly up hand lines while protecting a steep drop-off on the left. Follow the path past the large cairn, where you previously turned, and back to the parking lot.



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