Type: Trad, Alpine
GPS: 37.96688, -119.32128
FA: unknown
Page Views: 225 total · 10/month
Shared By: William Thiry on Aug 28, 2024
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

A very nice 3rd class outing that gets you to the summit of Mt. Conness. 

Start at the Sawmill Camp parking lot. Hike the main trail northwest thru the camp and keep going. At about 3-quarters of a mile you'll cross a stream. Keep going on the excellent trail through a splendid forested meadow. 

At around the 2-mile mark you'll be looking up to your right (north) at a large rock face and a jagged summit of towers that is higher up to the right of the rock face. Your job is to work your way up and pass under the large rock face toward the high towers, then angle left before the high towers at a waterfall. There are many ways to go to reach the somewhat obvious waterfall chute, choose your own adventure in this often exquisitely beautiful section.

In the late summer the waterfall chute should be essentially dry (expect some moist rocks, though) and it will be a 3rd class rock scramble (perhaps a few 4th class moves) that eventually gets you on to a large plateau. The high towers will be guarding the northeast quadrant of the plateau.

Cross west across this surreal plateau aiming for the slabby slopes on the far northwest side. The high knife-edge east ridge connecting to the guard towers will be high above your right shoulder. In front of you to the west will loom a large summit that seems to be the summit of Mt. Conness (it's not). A series of serrated towers will be lined up to the left (south) of the high summit. Don't worry, you don't have to climb those. You're aiming for the high false summit.

On the far (west) side of the plateau you'll see Alpine Lake shimmering down to your left. It's at this point where you'll begin picking your way up the slabs to the northwest toward the base of the false summit. This is another section of finding your own way.

Eventually you'll reach the actual top of the east ridge, where you'll be welcomed with a spectacular view of the Conness glacier basin and the North Ridge of Conness. At this point you get excited and feel that the effort has been worth it.

Make your way west to the base of the false summit. Climbing up to the summit looks intimidating but it is a 20-minute 3rd class scramble on mostly solid boulders. A worn sandy path seems to have developed but we found it very loose and unappealing. We chose to scramble up the slope of large boulders further right which was more pleasant. It's possible to imagine that these boulders could shift - which would likely be fatal - so be very cautious in choosing your path.

At the top of the initial scramble you'll reach a small saddle. Angle left from here for another 10 minutes up to the top, where you'll be greeted with a gigantic high plateau and the welcome view of your genuine destination summit on the other side.

From here you simply cross the plateau and climb the ridge that leads to the summit. The ridge is exposed and exciting 3rd class, but the rock is more solid than the previous scramble.

Enjoy one of the great summits of the High Sierra, then trace you way back down the way you came.

The total distance of this adventure is from 9 to 10 miles depending on the exact route you take. By late August the mosquitos shouldn't be a problem. Snow and ice could be present in places up through mid July. We did this car to car in 12 hours in late August. Many parties can do this much faster if they cared to do so. This route is typically used as the descent route from those ascending the North Ridge route.

Location Suggest change

Get to Saddlebag Lake Road, which is off Tioga Road (Hwy 120). It's about 2 miles east of the Tioga Pass Entrance Station, or 10 miles west from Highway 395.

Drive 1.5 miles up Saddlebag Lake Road and park at the Sawmill Campground parking lot.

Protection Suggest change

No gear needed other than snow gear early in the season

Photos

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