King of Diamonds

King of Diamonds follows discontinuous crack systems on the large, Southwest-facing slab to the right of Paddling About and its variation. A good landmark to look for is the large tree in the middle of the slab. The route starts below and slightly right of the tree. As with most low angle slabs, there are many variations.

P1: 80 feet, 5.7. Climb low angle cracks just left of a prominent dihedral. Belay at a ledge where they intersect the dihedral under a large flake. The tree is about 50 feet above this ledge.

P2: 120 feet, 5.6. Climb up the flake, then step left towards more low angle cracks. Follow the hand crack, passing the tree on your right. After the crack ends, continue up the slab until it hits a steeper headwall above.

P3: 80 feet, 5.6. Step over the arete, making an airy traverse to the left. After about 20 feet, head up the obvious dihedral above. From here, the route follows the exposed, low 5th Class slabs to the summit notch (up and left).

P4: 70 feet, 5.3. Finish with low angle climbing to the top. It is easy to link with the last pitch with a 70m rope.

It is right of Paddling About. Look for the large tree with slings on it in the middle of a clean slab about 130 feet above the ground.

A standard rack.