Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Threat Matrix

5.10c, TR, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Jeff Butterfield and Chris Kane, 1990s
Maine > -Acadia NP > Canada Cliff > Canada Cliff Rock
Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description

In my quest to climb lesser known routes on this island, there have been a few duds. This route suffers from some poor rock, and a little grunge, but it’s worth doing once if you’ve done everything else. Start under the low roof and climb up to a flake. Layback until a hidden jug is reached and pull into a stance. Stand up into the big overlap and undercling left. Pull into the crack using a crunchy flake, then layback and jam the crack. This looks like the easiest section from the ground but is actually really in your face. Pull left out of the crack and mantle to a tree ledge.

Protection

TR. Walk up the gully to the left side of the crag or lead Mr. Ice Cream

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Threat Matrix follows the rope, except at the bottom where it follows the flake to the right.
[Hide Photo] Threat Matrix follows the rope, except at the bottom where it follows the flake to the right.