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Moon Pilot

5.11+, Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Joe Y, Lou C September 2020
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Hatcher Pass > Reed Lakes Boul… > Mile High Wall > Main Wall

Description

P1: Start in a short left facing, low angle dihedral onto a small ledge. Step left into a short right facing hand crack. Continue up broken crack system through loose rock. After second small sloping ledge, climb short steep face aiming for short left facing dihedral that makes up left side of the anchor ledge. Tiny pro can be placed in dihedral while face climbing. Two bolt anchor. 5.9

P2: Step left and up over golden face, past two bolts. Pull tricky roof onto low angle slab with a bolt. Climb a short left facing dihedral past another bolt. Low angle face climbing over a small bulge onto a flake. Climb through steep slab past a bolt then over another steep bulge, pulling onto left trending crack that leads to a small notch atop the ridge. Two bolt anchor. 5.11+

Walk off or rap over large roof to separate two bolt anchor (different route)

Protection

Standard rack to 2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2 topo
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Route. Pitch 1 topo line and second rap anchor
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Joe Y and the yellow sweater
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