The Direct Line
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.84782, -119.40554 |
| FA: | Chaz & Travis - September 2023 |
| Page Views: | 124 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Travis H on Aug 12, 2024 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The second most obvious direct line to the top of Cathedral Wall. We placed two 3/8” bolts. One on pitch 1 and one on pitch 2. Other than that the route protects with gear. Rock was ok, we trundled the big stuff. Grades are an estimate, it’s been a year so I don’t remember all the details about the route. The route overlay is accurate enough. You’re aiming for the obvious corner on P4.
P1- Climb up some flakes to the top of a pinnacle. Clip a bolt and then make some face moves into a crack/undercling. Take that out right and continue laybacking up some flakey rock to the anchor. Make the anchor on a slab just below the obvious crack with a bush/tree visible up and left (this is P2). 5.10- 200’
P2- Climb up the crack and then move left around the arete. Clip a bolt and move up some thin cracks that will eventually trend up and right. Belay at a ledge. 5.10- not sure about length.
P3- Move up through a series of cracks. I remember staying right and then moving left via a nice finger crack that put me on a ledge with some cool splitters above. Climb these and then continue up further. 5.9? A long pitch I think. Maybe another 200’ pitch.
P4- Head left off the belay aiming for the obvious corner above. This was a good pitch. Belay when the angle eases off. 5.10- not too long, maybe 120’?
P5- Many ways to go but I went up the corner and then left to the ‘summit’. 5.8. Short pitch 50’?



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