Bettembourg-Thivierge
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British A0
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 754 ft (228 m), 9 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 45 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | James H on Jul 30, 2024 |
Admins: | Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514 |
Description
This is a fantastic moderate climb guarded by the first harder pitch of 6b/A0 climbing. The crack system on P4-5 was outstanding!
P1: (6b/A0, 50m) The first pitch starts with an A0 bolt ladder due to glacier recession. After the bolt ladder move outright free, climbing toward a steep corner crack through an overhang. Belay above this overhang.
P2: (5c, 20m) Follow the corner, pass a bolted anchor, and move to the left to establish the belay.
P3: (5c, 20m) Follow the corner system working up and left along slabby terrain—Belay at a large ledge.
Pitch 2 and 3 can be linked depending on some descriptions.
P4: (5c, 40m) Climb up a blocky start and continue up on fantastic crack climbing! Belay at a small but comfy belay ledge.
P5: (6a, 35m) Climb the fantastic corner crack!
P6: (5c, 40m) Continue up the corner system.
P7: (5b, 20m) Follow the crack/chimney system up and belay on the left.
P8: (5c, 50-60m) Two options: Climb directly up the dihedral to a double-bolted rap station. Some parties rap from here. Alternatively, trent right before the top of the corner/chimney climbing to reach a single bolt belay at the base of a prominent corner crack system. To continue with P9, it's best to be at the single bolt belay. *We climbed the corner, reached the rappel station, and then had to move the belay by down-climbing to the base of the dihedral for P9.
P9: (5c) Fantastic climbing up an interesting corner crack system, which is surprisingly hard to protect. Belay at the top of the spire.
Descent: Rappel the route.
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