Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 754 ft (228 m), 9 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 45 total · 8/month
Shared By: James H on Jul 30, 2024
Admins: Bogdan Petre, David Riley, Luc-514

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Description Suggest change

This is a fantastic moderate climb guarded by the first harder pitch of 6b/A0 climbing. The crack system on P4-5 was outstanding!

P1: (6b/A0, 50m) The first pitch starts with an A0 bolt ladder due to glacier recession. After the bolt ladder move outright free, climbing toward a steep corner crack through an overhang. Belay above this overhang. 

P2: (5c, 20m)  Follow the corner, pass a bolted anchor, and move to the left to establish the belay. 

P3: (5c, 20m) Follow the corner system working up and left along slabby terrain—Belay at a large ledge.

Pitch 2 and 3 can be linked depending on some descriptions. 

P4: (5c, 40m) Climb up a blocky start and continue up on fantastic crack climbing! Belay at a small but comfy belay ledge. 

P5: (6a, 35m) Climb the fantastic corner crack!

P6: (5c, 40m) Continue up the corner system.

P7: (5b, 20m) Follow the crack/chimney system up and belay on the left.

P8: (5c, 50-60m) Two options: Climb directly up the dihedral to a double-bolted rap station. Some parties rap from here. Alternatively, trent right before the top of the corner/chimney climbing to reach a single bolt belay at the base of a prominent corner crack system. To continue with P9, it's best to be at the single bolt belay. *We climbed the corner, reached the rappel station, and then had to move the belay by down-climbing to the base of the dihedral for P9. 

P9: (5c) Fantastic climbing up an interesting corner crack system, which is surprisingly hard to protect. Belay at the top of the spire.

Descent: Rappel the route. 

Protection Suggest change

Gear from #0.3 - #3 and nuts.

Location Suggest change

This route can be located by the prominent bolt ladder for the first 10 meters.

Photos

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