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Pickpocket

5.11a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Christopher Buckley. Oct 2022
International > Asia > Japan > Okinawa Prefecture > Okinawa > Zampa > Dental Wall Right

Description

A nice addition to the wall with grade a fair bit above the questionably easier 5.10s to the left, but not nearly as hardcore as the 12s elsewhere. Full of pockets of various sizes, but they tend to be wet unless you chose your day very wisely. There are quite a few possible variations between the 2nd and 4th bolts, with no particular "right way". 

Its the only route on this side of the wall that has visible anchors from the start, so really the only route here suitable for top roping <5.12.  

A little sketchy start as holds are sharp and tend to break off and the base can be quite slippery, so stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea.

Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a struggle, but the true crux is just before the anchors.

Location

To the right of Zanpa Crack, but left of Above the South China Sea. Just to the right of the little gap in the rocks as you go along the coast.

Protection

Titanium bolts installed 2022 by Tim Larick, Josh King, and Bo Buckley