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The Pen is Miter than the Sword

5.10, Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Japhy Dhungana, Zach Lovell, Rainbow Weinstock, July 22 2024
California > High Sierra > 15 - Cottonwood… > Miter Basin > Miter

Description

This route draws a direct line on the Southwest Face of the Miter (higher N Summit).  Start from discontinuous ledges at 5.6 terrain, generally following a crack system.  The lower 2 pitches have loose rock on the ledges, and the higher you climb, the better the rock quality becomes.  Generally veer left towards the summit.  The upper 3 pitches all have enjoyable, and brief, well-protected stretches of 5.10 climbing.  About 100ft below the summit, unrope, and scramble up 3rd/4th class terrain to the true summit.  

Descend via the NW Chute route.

Location

SW Face of the Miter's North (higher) summit.

Protection

Alpine Trad Rack. Double rack from 0.3 to #3 camalot. 60m rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Japhy leading up the featured cracks en-route.  Photo Credit: Zach Lovell.
[Hide Photo] Japhy leading up the featured cracks en-route. Photo Credit: Zach Lovell.
The line up the SW Face of the Miter.  Photo credit: Zach Lovell.
[Hide Photo] The line up the SW Face of the Miter. Photo credit: Zach Lovell.