Hot Curly Weenie
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 10 votes
Type: | Trad, TR, 105 ft (32 m) |
FA: | Jon Nelson, Brian Patrick (~1982) |
Page Views: | 102 total · 49/month |
Shared By: | Ben jamin on Jul 7, 2024 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
A striking corner finger crack that sat in the woods for decades waiting to be rediscovered. This route appeared in Darryl Cramer's Sky Valley Rock, along with the aptly named Poop Chute, but not the more recent Index Town Walls
Start in a corner finger crack atop a flake (or start below for full value) and jam and stem your way up the finger crack until the angle eases and the crack widens. Continue up the crack to an anchor up high, which may be hard to see until you get closer.
The top may be a little dirty, but if this route cleans up a little bit its a pretty classic finger crack. Bring a brush and do something nice!
Also, there is a handline up the gully just west of Hot Curly that gives easy access to the anchors. So, it is easy to set up a TR on this crack. (As of early July, this gully is a bit clogged with debris from above, but should be cleaned up soon. If you're feeling in a helpful mood, bring up a small handsaw to help remove some of the fallen branches clogging up the gully.)
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