Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS: 44.79341, -68.49597
FA: Ward Smith and Chris Smith 10/89
Page Views: 87 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nhan Ngo on Jul 2, 2024
Admins: BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This route climbs the slab starting on the big bivy ledge just to the right of Witch Wonder. Continue up mid 5.11 slab past 4 bolts to a horizontal slot that you can put a medium cam into (0.75 and larger is fine). Then make a couple tricky moves to gain the layback crack, small cams fit in here. Clip bolt over the bulge whilst going up the flake, and at the second bolt you can clip and then move over the bulge onto the final face. One more bolt to the anchors on mid 5.10 terrain. 

The pump factor definitely builds up. If thin crystal pinching is not your style, the powerful layback section might actually feel like the easiest part. 

There is a second pitch that goes up to the Witch Wonder right exit anchors. The terrain is lower angle.

Location Suggest change

To the right of Witch Wonder there is a big ledge, which you can gain by climbing the start of Highlander into Witch Wonder and trend to the right (2 bolts + a few pieces). There are other ways to scramble onto the ledge, but they are quite dirty and mossy, so this is probably the best option.

Protection Suggest change

7 Bolts + 0.75 cam or larger for horizontal and one finger sized cam to protect flake

Photos

0 Comments