| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 44.79341, -68.49597 |
| FA: | Ward Smith and Chris Smith 10/89 |
| Page Views: | 87 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Nhan Ngo on Jul 2, 2024 |
| Admins: | BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca |
Description
This route climbs the slab starting on the big bivy ledge just to the right of Witch Wonder. Continue up mid 5.11 slab past 4 bolts to a horizontal slot that you can put a medium cam into (0.75 and larger is fine). Then make a couple tricky moves to gain the layback crack, small cams fit in here. Clip bolt over the bulge whilst going up the flake, and at the second bolt you can clip and then move over the bulge onto the final face. One more bolt to the anchors on mid 5.10 terrain.
The pump factor definitely builds up. If thin crystal pinching is not your style, the powerful layback section might actually feel like the easiest part.
There is a second pitch that goes up to the Witch Wonder right exit anchors. The terrain is lower angle.
Location
To the right of Witch Wonder there is a big ledge, which you can gain by climbing the start of Highlander into Witch Wonder and trend to the right (2 bolts + a few pieces). There are other ways to scramble onto the ledge, but they are quite dirty and mossy, so this is probably the best option.



0 Comments